How to Style Hair With Hot Rollers

Co-authored by Laura Martin

Last Updated: September 15, 2021

Using hot rollers to style your hair may seem old fashioned, but there's a good reason why this technique has been around for so long. Rollers create natural-looking curls that cascade elegantly to your shoulders if you have long hair, or that create perky curls above your shoulders if your hair is short. Learn how to use them to create classic curls, bouncy waves, and ringlets.

Method 1

Method 1 of 3:

Getting Classic Curls

1
Get the rollers ready. Go ahead and plug in the hot rollers so that they're fully heated by the time you're ready to put them in your hair. If this is your first time using your set of rollers, read the manufacturer's instructions to make sure you use the equipment properly.
- Keep in mind that a hot roller set usually comes with a few different sizes of rollers and you will need to use all of them to cover your head. If you want to use only 1 size of rollers, then you may need to buy multiple mixed sets to have enough.
2
Spray your hair with gentle hold hairspray. Start with completely dry hair, since your hair won't hold curls if you use this method with wet hair. Spray your hair all over with hairspray, which will help define your curls as the hot rollers go to work.
- It is also important for your hair to be dry since wet hair can steam and this may result in a burn on your scalp.
Advertisement
3
Divide your hair into 4 or more sections. Use a comb to separate your hair out into 4 even sections.^{[1]
X
Research source} You should have 1 on top of your head, 1 on the back center of your head, and 1 on each side of your head. Use a clip to secure each of these sections until you are ready to put in the hot rollers.
- If you have very thick hair, then you may need to divide your hair into 6 or even 8 sections for hot rolling.
4
Roll the top and back center sections.^{[2]
X
Research source} Starting in the front, lift up a section of hair that is no wider than the roller. If you have long hair, then you may need to grab a smaller section to ensure that the rolled hair will not be too thick on the roller. Wrap the end of it around the first roller, moving up towards the roots. Roll your hair back towards the crown of your head so that the front of your hair pulls away from your forehead and over the roller.^{[3]
X
Research source} Secure the roller in place with a roller pin of the appropriate size. Continue rolling your hair until you've rolled the entire middle section of hair.
- Roll your hair in different directions if you don't want uniform curls. Roll some sections of hair forward and some sections of hair backward. This will result in curls that look more natural.
- For small, tight curls, be sure to use the smaller rollers in your set. Use medium rollers for larger classic curls.
- Use the largest rollers first and then the smaller ones after those are all gone.
5
Work on rolling the side sections. You can roll the side sections with the hair curling towards or away from the face, up towards the top of your head, or down towards your shoulder. Start with a small section of 1 of the side sections of hair and wrap it around a roller starting with the ends. Then, pick up another section and repeat.
- Repeat with the hair on the other side of your head until all of your hair has been rolled.
6
Spray your hair and let the curls set. Use firm-hold hairspray to spray your entire head, making sure to cover every roller. This will ensure that your curls stay intact when you take down the rollers. Keep the rollers in your hair until they are completely cool, about 20 minutes.
7
Remove the rollers. Take off the pins and let your curls fall away from the rollers. Use your fingers to separate and fluff up your curls. For added hold, spray your hair once more with hair spray.

Method 2

Method 2 of 3:

Creating Bouncy Waves

1
Heat the rollers. For loose, bouncy waves, plan on using the biggest rollers you have, but keep in mind that you may need more than 1 set if you want to use only large rollers. Plug in your roller set and let it heat thoroughly while you prep your hair for this rolling technique.
2
Run mousse through your hair. Rub mousse between your palms and smooth it into your hair while it is dry. This will help your hair retain its shape as the hot rollers work.
3
Separate your hair into sections. The method for creating bouncy waves is similar to the method for creating classic curls. Use a comb to separate your hair into 4 sections: you should have a section on the top of your head, a back center section, a left section, and a right section. Secure each of the 4 sections with hair clips.^{[4]
X
Research source}
- If you have very thick hair, then you may need to divide your hair into more than 4 sections.
4
Roll the top and back middle sections. Take a piece from the front section of your hair that is no wider than the roller, and place it over a large hot roller. If your hair is long and/or thick, then you might need to use several rollers for each section. Roll the hair back toward your forehead, so that the hair pulls away from your forehead and the curler rests horizontally on the top of your head. Use a roller pin to hold it in place. Continue rolling sections of hair from the top and back sections until you've worked your way down to the nape of your neck.
- For loose, bouncy waves, roll all of your hair in the same direction.
- You can also try using different sized rollers in different areas to create waves of different sizes.
- Divide the back of your head into 2 to 3 sections. Don't put all of it onto 1 roller.
5
Roll the side sections. Working from the top of your head, take a piece from 1 of the side sections that is no wider than the roller and roll it with the hot roller. Pin it in place, then continue to the section of hair just below the roller. Keep rolling hair until you've reached the bottom of your hairline. Repeat on the other section of your head. Your hair should now be completely rolled.
6
Mist your hair with hairspray and let the curls set. Use a gentle hold spray to mist your hair as the rollers set. Let them stay in your hair until they are completely cool, which should take about twenty minutes.
7
Remove the rollers and brush out your hair. Remove the pins from the rollers and loosen your hair. Use your fingers or a brush to gently brush out the curls into waves. Smooth mousse through your hair to keep your bouncy waves in place all day.

Method 3

Method 3 of 3:

Forming Ringlets

1
Heat up the rollers. For ringlets, you'll need the smallest rollers you can find. If your set comes with only larger rollers, see if you can borrow more small rollers from a friend, or buy an extra package from the store. Plug in the roller set and let it heat while you get your hair ready to make ringlets.
2
Spray your hair with hairspray. While your hair is dry, spray it all over with a liberal amount of hairspray. This will keep the curls tight as they form over the hot rollers.
3
Divide your hair into 4 or more sections. Dividing your hair into at least 4 sections will make it easier to create ringlets. Use a comb to divide your hair into a top section, a back center section, and 2 side sections. Create a part on either side of your hair to separate the side sections, and keep them apart using large hair clips. Then, use the comb to divide the middle section into a top and back center section.^{[5]
X
Research source}
- If your hair is very thick, then you may need to divide it into more than 4 sections.
4
Roll the top and back center sections. To create ringlets, roll subsections of each of the top and back sections of your hair up vertically, rather than horizontally. Gather a small section of hair from just above your forehead. The section should be no wider than the roller. Hold the hot roller at the tips of your hair and roll down to the top of your head, so that the roller points from front to back instead of side to side.
- Repeat with the next section of hair and work your way all the way down to the neck.
- Create as many vertical rows of rollers as necessary to roll up all of your hair.
5
Roll each of the side sections. Take 1 small piece at a time from 1 section at a time and roll it. Make sure the section is no wider than the roller. Roll your hair in vertical rows extending from the top of your head, behind your ears, and down to your neck. Roll up all of the hair on 1 side, then repeat on the other side. All of your hair should now be rolled up in vertical rows.
6
Spray your hair with hairspray and let the curls set. Use extra-hold hairspray to spray your hair all over. Keep the rollers in until they are completely cool, about 20 minutes.
7
Remove the rollers. Carefully remove the pins that hold the rollers in place and let your curls fall away. As you undo the rollers, you'll see that your hair has curled into tight, shiny ringlets. Simply scrunch some gel or a bit more hairspray into your hair with your fingers. Don't brush your hair, or the ringlets will fall apart.

Expert Q&A
Did you know you can get expert answers for this article? Unlock expert answers by supporting wikiHow

Question

How long do you leave hot rollers in your hair?

Laura Martin
Professional Hair Stylist
Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist in Georgia. She has been a hair stylist since 2007 and a cosmetology teacher since 2013.

Laura Martin

Professional Hair Stylist

Expert Answer

Support wikiHow by unlocking this expert answer.

You want to leave the rollers in until they have cooled completely. This usually takes 10-20 minutes depending on the length and density of your hair.
Question

What heated rollers are the best?

Laura Martin
Professional Hair Stylist
Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist in Georgia. She has been a hair stylist since 2007 and a cosmetology teacher since 2013.

Laura Martin

Professional Hair Stylist

Expert Answer

Support wikiHow by unlocking this expert answer.

I like steam rollers. These are heated one at a time and use both heat and water to set the hair. This makes the curls they create doubly strong.
Question

Are hot rollers better than a curling iron?

Laura Martin
Professional Hair Stylist
Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist in Georgia. She has been a hair stylist since 2007 and a cosmetology teacher since 2013.

Laura Martin

Professional Hair Stylist

Expert Answer

Support wikiHow by unlocking this expert answer.

Hot rollers create a different type of curl than curling irons. Hot rollers curls are better if you want volume; curling iron curls are softer and more natural-looking.