How to Use Hair Rollers

Co-authored by Karen Leight

Last Updated: May 6, 2022 References Approved

Big, curly hair is all the rage right now, but it can be very hard to get the look just right. Using a curling iron can give your arm cramps, and those curls tend to fall limp fairly quickly. Using hair rollers might seem like something your grandmother would do, but there are several techniques you can use to take this old-fashioned beauty trick into the 21st century! Curl, wave, or volumize your hair with hot rollers, foam rollers, or wet-set rollers.

Method 1

Method 1 of 3:

Using Wet-Set Rollers

1
Select your rollers. You can use a variety of rollers for wet-setting hair. Mesh or velcro rollers are the easiest to roll, but may snag in thick or curly hair. Foam rollers are fairly easy to roll, but because they're spongy it may take longer for your curls to dry. Smooth magnetic clips will hold very tightly and produce well-defined curls, but are also the hardest to roll. Experiment until you find rollers that work for you and your hair.
- Mesh and Velcro rollers should never be used in very wet hair. If you choose these types of rollers, you should air dry or blow dry your hair until it is slightly damp before using them.
2
Wash and condition your hair. Because your hair will be drying under tension, it's helpful to use an extra-moisturizing shampoo and conditioner before wet-setting your hair. You can squeeze excess moisture from your hair in the shower, but don't towel-dry. Comb through wet hair.

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3
Partition your hair into sections. Part your hair at the left and right temples. You should have three sections: one over each ear and one at the top of your head. You can leave the back alone for now.
4
Begin rolling at your hairline. Comb a section the width of your roller forward and then hold it up away from your head. Smooth a bit of hair gel or smoothing cream through that section. Then, rolling away from your face, wind the roller all the way down to your scalp. Secure it with a pin or clip.
5
Continue rolling. Section your hair bit by bit, smooth gel or cream through it, and roll the curls away from your face. If you want very small tight curls, use small rollers and put them close together. If you want larger curls, use larger rollers.
6
Dry your curls. If you want to avoid heat on your hair, allow your curls to fully air-dry before removing the rollers. This may take several hours or even overnight. You can also blow dry your hair with the rollers in. If you blow dry, allow the rollers to stay in about 15 minutes after you've dried your hair to cool and set the curls.^{[1]
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Method 2

Method 2 of 3:

Using Hot Rollers

1
Select your rollers. Small rollers create tight curls, and large rollers create softer, wavy curls. Very large rollers simply volumize your hair and cause the ends to curl under, rather than creating defined curls or waves. You need at least shoulder-length hair to use larger rollers. Hot rollers are good for almost all hair types except for very fine or thin hair that's prone to breakage. They're particularly good at reducing frizz.
- The number of rollers you need will depend on the size of the curls you are trying to create, as well as your head size. If you're trying to create a lot of small, tight curls with small to medium rollers, you may need a dozen or more rollers.
- As a general rule, each roller should sit on a section of your hair about the same size as the roller, regardless of the texture or thickness of your hair.
- Felt rollers offer additional smoothness and shine, which is great for hair that tends to frizz.^{[2]
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- You can create different curl or wave shapes by wrapping your hair around the curler multiple times. For example, making 1 ½ wraps around a curler will create a “c” shaped curl. 2 ½ wraps will produce an “s” shape. The number of wraps you can make will depend on the length of your hair and the size of the curler.
2
Straighten your hair with a blow dryer first, if necessary. If you have extremely curly hair, blow dry your hair straight before rolling. This will help you set smooth, uniform curls.^{[3]
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3
Preheat your rollers. It's important to preheat your rollers to get them to the optimal temperature before you begin rolling. Follow the manufacturer's instructions. If you have a hot roller set with variable temperatures, you may need to experiment to find the right setting for your hair.
- For tighter, spiral curls use small rollers and high temperatures. For softer, looser curls use large rollers and low temperatures.
4
Apply a heat-activated styling product to your hair. You can find heat-activated sprays and creams at most drug stores and beauty supply stores. This type of product will help protect your hair from heat damage and will keep the curl set longer. Distribute the product evenly throughout dry hair.
5
Partition your hair into small sections.^{[4]
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Expert Source

Karen Leight
Professional Hair Stylist
Expert Interview. 13 November 2020.} Create a "mohawk" about 2 to 3 inches (5 to 8 cm) wide that runs from your forehead to the back of your neck. Secure it with a clip. Using a tail comb, part the hair on the sides of your head into a few even sections and secure them with clips.
- The smaller the sections the easier it will be for your hair to curl.^{[5]
  X
  Expert Source
  
  Karen Leight
  Professional Hair Stylist
  Expert Interview. 13 November 2020.}
6
Begin rolling at your forehead. Comb through a section of hair as wide as the roller you're using and no more than two inches thick. Hold that section up and away from your head. Place the roller at the ends of your hair and roll down toward the scalp, rolling away from your face. Secure with clips.
- Continue rolling the mohawk section, working your way from front to back. Section off manageable sections of hair and roll them onto the rollers, then secure with clips.
7
Roll the sides next. Comb through the section, pull it up and away from your head, and place the roller diagonally across the ends. Roll tightly to your scalp and secure with clips.^{[6]
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Research source} Repeat until all hair is rolled.
- To achieve bigger lift, roll hair at the top part of the side sections diagonally. For the highest possible lift, roll the hair up at a 90° angle from each section.
8
Leave rollers in hair until cool. Allow the rollers to completely cool before removing them from your hair. Removing the rollers too quickly will result in less long-lasting curls. Rollers will take longer to cool in very thick or curly hair, but be patient. The results will be worth it!
9
Remove the rollers. Start at the bottom and work your way to the top of your head. Hold the roller in one hand and remove clips with the other.
- Do not pull or tug the roller out of your hair as it will mess up the curl and may also damage your hair. Allow it to drop out of the curl.
10
Style your hair as desired. Brushing through your curls will remove much of the curl and result in loose, flowing waves. To keep the curls neat and tight, run your fingers gently through your hair. Spray with hairspray to ensure long-lasting curls.
- If you want more volume, bend over and let your head hang down. Shake your head a few times and run your fingers gently through the curls. This will give you bigger, bouncier hair.

Method 3

Method 3 of 3:

Using Foam Rollers

1
Select your rollers. Foam rollers are good for many types of hair, but they are particularly good for fragile hair as they are unlikely to snag or damage it. Select rollers according to the size of curls desired. The smaller the roller, the tighter the curl. Larger rollers create soft, gentle movement in the hair. You need at least shoulder-length hair to use larger rollers. You should be able to you're your hair around the roller at least 1 ½ times.
- Large rollers may not work well for people with very fine hair, as they can get too heavy and fall out. You may need to experiment to find what's right for your hair.
2
Distribute styling mousse throughout hair. Using a curl-enhancing styling product is especially important if you have fine or very straight hair. Otherwise, your curls may collapse after only a few hours. Use the amount recommended on the container and spread it evenly throughout towel-dried hair.
3
Partition your hair into small sections. Using a tail comb works well for this step. Divide sections so that you have one section running down the middle of your head to the back of your crown (imagine a "mohawk"), one section over each ear, and one in the back. Secure each section with clips.
- You can use basically any type of hair clip to hold your sections, but inexpensive sectioning clips like stylists use can usually be found in beauty supply stores or online. They make keeping your sections separate quick and easy.
4
Roll your hair in small sections.^{[7]
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Expert Source

Karen Leight
Professional Hair Stylist
Expert Interview. 13 November 2020.} The width of the sections will be based on the size of the roller you're using: they should not be wider than your roller, and shouldn't be thicker than two inches or so.^{[8]
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Research source}.
- The smaller the sections the easier it will be for your hair to curl.^{[9]
  X
  Expert Source
  
  Karen Leight
  Professional Hair Stylist
  Expert Interview. 13 November 2020.}
- Comb through each section before rolling. Use your tail comb to comb through your hair to eliminate any tangles and pull the section gently away from your scalp.
5
Begin rolling at the front of the "mohawk" section (near your forehead). Roll the hair in this section away from your face, toward the back of your head. Keep the hair taut as you roll by holding onto the ends with one hand as you roll with the other. After two complete rolls, tuck the loose ends in and finish rolling the curl.^{[10]
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- If you want volume all the way along your curl, start rolling about an inch or so from the ends and roll the curl all the way down to your scalp. Secure with a clip.
- If you want your hair to be straight near your head, start rolling about three inches from your head, and roll all the way to the ends. Then wind the roller down to your scalp. Secure with a clip.
6
Continue rolling at the sides. Divide each side section in half horizontally, using a tail comb to part the hair just above your ears. Roll the two parts of each side section under (rolling away from your face, toward the hairline at your neck) and secure with clips.
- You may want to use larger curlers at the bottom and smaller curlers at the top for a varied look.
7
Divide the back section into three or four sections, depending on the thickness of your hair. Roll each part onto a foam roller, curling toward the back of your neck. Secure with clips.
8
Blow dry to set your curls. Blow dry until your hair is dry and warm to the touch. You need to get the hair warm enough to set the curl. Leave the rollers in for about 15 minutes, then gently remove them.
- Don't brush your hair after removing the rollers! This will destroy the curls. If you need to, use your fingers to lightly separate your curls.
- If you want more volume, bend over and let your head hang down. Shake your head a few times and run your fingers gentle through the curls. This will give you bigger, bouncier hair.
9
Spray with hairspray. Especially if you have naturally straight or very fine hair, using hairspray to further set your curls will help them keep their shape longer.
- For long-lasting volume, flip your hair upside down before spraying.
- You can also define individual curls further with hair wax. Just take a dab between your fingers and run them over the curls you want to define.

Expert Q&A

Question

How long do you leave Velcro rollers in your hair?

Laura Martin
Licensed Cosmetologist
Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist in Georgia. She has been a hair stylist since 2007 and a cosmetology teacher since 2013.

Laura Martin

Licensed Cosmetologist

Expert Answer

You should leave Velcro rollers in for between 10-30 minutes usually, but you can leave them in longer if you wish. Since there's little to no heat or moisture involved the timing is flexible.
Question

Can I put curlers in my hair when it wet?

Laura Martin
Licensed Cosmetologist
Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist in Georgia. She has been a hair stylist since 2007 and a cosmetology teacher since 2013.

Laura Martin

Licensed Cosmetologist

Expert Answer

Yes, but you need to use magnetic rollers. You can also roll damp hair with velcro rollers, but don't use them on soaking wet strands.
Question

How can I heat my rollers now that the heater has broken?

Laura Martin
Licensed Cosmetologist
Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist in Georgia. She has been a hair stylist since 2007 and a cosmetology teacher since 2013.

Laura Martin

Licensed Cosmetologist

Expert Answer

You can still use the rollers without the heater but the results will be softer. Prep hair with a heat reactant spray or light styling mousse. Roll with firm tension and pin in place. Use a hairdryer to gently heat the completed roller set and then allow to cool for 15 minutes before removing rollers.