How to Use a Grigri

A grigri is a belaying device with an assisted braking mechanism that you can use for rock climbing. The main feature of a grigri is a clutch mechanism that helps you with braking by pinching the rope when it is moving too fast, such as during a fall. This also makes it much easier for the belayer to hold the climber while they rest or stop climbing to plan out a route. Keep in mind that this braking mechanism is only effective when used properly. When you use it with the right technique and follow safety guidelines, a grigri can be a very helpful belaying tool for you and your climbing buddies.

Method 1
Method 1 of 3:

Setting up Your Grigri

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    Feed your climbing rope under the cam inside the grigri. The cam is the U-shaped metal piece in the middle of the grigri that the belaying rope slides along. Flip open the moving side plate of your grigri to access the cam. Feed the rope in through the space between the cam and the moving side plate and loop it up under the cam. Flip the side plate closed to cover the rope.[1]
    • A grigri is almost oval shaped, though 1 side is more pointy and 1 side is more rounded. It consists of 1 fixed metal side plate, to which the cam is attached, and 1 moving metal side place that you can flip open to access the cam. There is also a quick release handle attached to the fixed metal plate.
    • There are engraved diagrams on both the inside and outside of your grigri that show you exactly how to feed the rope into the device.
    • Note that you have to wear a climbing harness in order to use a grigri, just as you would if you were going to belay someone without a grigri.

    Warning: Always read the manufacturer’s instructions for your grigri thoroughly and follow any additional directions or advice for setting it up.

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    2
    Clip a screwgate carabiner to the belay loop on your harness. The belay loop is the loop in the middle of the front of your climbing harness. Unscrew the screwgate and press the carabiner open. Hook it onto your belay loop so the narrow side of the carabiner is closest to your body.[2]
    • A screwgate carabiner is a carabiner with cylindrical threaded metal piece that you can screw over the gate of the carabiner to be 100% sure that it won’t pop open while you’re belaying.
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    Put the carabiner through the grigri and screw the gate closed. Press the carabiner open and clip it through the attachment holes on both of your grigri’s side plates. Screw the cylindrical piece all the way into place over the carabiner’s gate to secure it in place, so it won’t come unhooked while you belay a climber.[3]
    • The section of rope coming out of the top of your grigri is the climbing rope and the section coming out of the bottom of the grigri is the braking rope.
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    4
    Tie a knot in the end of the braking rope. Tie a strong climbing knot into the end of the section of rope that is coming out of the bottom of the grigri. This will prevent the braking rope from sliding through the grigri if you run out of slack.[4]
    • For example, you could tie a figure 8 knot in the end of the braking rope.
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Method 2
Method 2 of 3:

Belaying Someone with a Grigri

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    Hold onto the braking side of the rope with 1 hand at all times. Remember that the braking side of the rope is the section that comes out of the bottom of the grigri. Always hold onto the section of rope that comes out of the bottom of the grigri with 1 hand. This will allow you to maintain control of the grigri and quickly help the climber brake and hang when they need it.[5]
    • A grigri is not an auto-locking belaying device, so the rope can still potentially slide through the device if you don’t hold onto the braking side of the rope. When you hold onto the braking side, it helps to engage the cam and initiate the braking of the rope.
    • The person using the grigri is always the belayer, or the person on the ground, who helps the climber by controlling the climbing rope. The belayer’s job is to give the climber slack when they need it or hold them in place if they fall or need to rest.

    Warning: Don't try to operate a grigri on your own for the first time. Get someone who has experience to help walk you through using a grigri, so you don’t make any mistakes that could result in an accident.

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    2
    Pull the climbing rope slowly through the grigri to feed slack to a climber. Pull the section of rope coming out from the top of the grigri slowly through the mechanism using the hand that you aren’t holding the braking side of the rope with. Use your braking hand to help feed the rope through the cam, but don’t ever let go of the braking side of the rope.[6]
    • The key to this technique is to feed the slack slowly. If you try to pull the rope through the grigri too fast, it will engage the cam and lock the rope in place.
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    3
    Press down on the cam to disengage it if you need to feed slack fast. Lock the index finger of the hand holding the braking rope under the lip on the grigri’s side plate. Press down on the cam with your thumb as you pull the slack through with your other hand.[7]
    • Keep holding onto the braking side of the rope with your other 3 fingers. Your index finger and thumb are the only digits that you should unwrap from around the rope to support the grigri and disengage the cam while you feed slack through.
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    4
    Pull down on the braking rope if the climber falls to help engage the cam. Use the hand holding the braking side of the rope to pull the rope straight down and in front of you. This will help engage the grigri’s cam right away, so it stops their fall and holds most of the climber’s weight for you.[8]
    • You can also do this if the climber needs to take a break to rest or plan their route. The cam will hold the majority of their weight, so they can hang there indefinitely without you getting tired.
    • If the cam doesn’t engage right away, try stepping back or sitting down to make it engage.
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    Pull the release handle and feed the rope through the grigri to lower a climber. Use the hand that you aren’t using to hold the braking side of the rope to pull back on the grigri’s quick release handle until you feel resistance. Push the braking side of the rope through the grigri slowly without taking your hand off it until you lower the climber down all the way to the ground.[9]
    • If the climber is coming down too fast, just let go of the quick release handle and pull down on the braking rope to engage the cam and stop lowering the climber.
    • Don’t pull the quick release handle all the way back or you might completely disengage the locking mechanism. Just pull back until you feel resistance, so that the handle will still snap back into place when you let go of it.
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Method 3
Method 3 of 3:

Staying Safe

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    Be attentive when you are belaying and keep a close eye on the climber. This will allow you to react quickly if they need your assistance. Listen for any commands the climber shouts to you. Watch the climber constantly in case they fall and need you to engage the grigri to stop their descent.[10]
    • The climber is relying on you, the belayer, to keep them safe. One mistake can cause serious injury or even death, so always be 100% focused on the climber.
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    2
    Avoid holding onto the grigri itself, so you don’t block the cam. Always keep 1 hand on the braking side of the rope and don’t wrap either of your hands around the grigri mechanism. Holding the grigri might block the cam and keep it from engaging when you need to brake the climber.[11]
    • It’s OK to partially hold onto the grigri when you’re feeding slack to the climber, but that doesn’t mean take your hand off the brake rope and hold the grigri inside your whole hand.
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    3
    Keep your hand off of the climber’s side of the rope if the climber falls. Grabbing the climbing side of the rope can prevent the grigri’s cam from engaging. Only pull on the braking side of the rope when the climber falls to help engage the cam mechanism.[12]
    • The only time you should touch the climbing side of the rope is when you’re feeding the climber slack.
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Warnings

  • Never hold onto the grigri itself with your hand. You might accidentally lock the cam open, which means that it won’t help you brake the rope.
    ⧼thumbs_response⧽
  • Resist the urge to grab the climbers rope during a fall. This can prevent the grigri’s cam from fully engaging. Only pull on the braking rope.
    ⧼thumbs_response⧽
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References

  1. ↑ https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/using-a-gri-gri-to-ascend-fixed-ropes
  2. ↑ https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/using-a-gri-gri-to-ascend-fixed-ropes
  3. ↑ https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/using-a-gri-gri-to-ascend-fixed-ropes
  4. ↑ https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Belaying-with-the-GRIGRI?ActivityName=rock-climbing
  5. ↑ https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Belaying-with-the-GRIGRI?ActivityName=rock-climbing
  6. ↑ https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Belaying-with-the-GRIGRI?ActivityName=rock-climbing
  7. ↑ https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Belaying-with-the-GRIGRI?ActivityName=rock-climbing
  8. ↑ https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/grigri-belay/
  9. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-h-Dy11iX2U&feature=youtu.be&t=190
  1. ↑ https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Belaying-with-the-GRIGRI?ActivityName=rock-climbing
  2. ↑ http://www.mountaineeringmethodology.com/grigri-belay-device/
  3. ↑ http://www.mountaineeringmethodology.com/grigri-belay-device/

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wikiHow Staff
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wikiHow Staff
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This article was co-authored by wikiHow Staff. Our trained team of editors and researchers validate articles for accuracy and comprehensiveness. wikiHow's Content Management Team carefully monitors the work from our editorial staff to ensure that each article is backed by trusted research and meets our high quality standards. This article has been viewed 8,276 times.
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Co-authors: 6
Updated: June 15, 2020
Views: 8,276
Categories: Rock Climbing
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