How to Build a Hexagon Picnic Table

Gather the required materials (see, Things You'll Need, below). You want to buy good quality materials with minimal knots, splits, or warping. Cedar, redwood, or even the new recycled plastic decking is best for flat surfaces. In this article, treated southern, yellow pine lumber is used.

• Set up a work area so you can cut and assemble parts conveniently. You will need a workbench or table at least four feet square, as well as saw horses and a bench for your miter saw.

Mark the basic hexagon shape of the hub, or center of your table on your work table or a sheet of plywood. This will help you place pieces in the correct position.

• You can lay out the hub with a framing square, drawing a center line, transversal (with its length roughly 1 1/2 inch (3.75cm) longer than 2 spokes placed end-to-end), then marking two 60 degree angles on each side at the center so the third angle between them on each side will be 60 degrees also (for 6 x 60 = 360 degrees), then measuring out from the center point equal distances (in the length of the spoke), and finally, connecting these points to form the outline of the hexagon (for 6 equal outer edge boards).

Use the drawing on the table surface to establish the length of the members that will form the "band" (outer edge boards) of the hexagon. For the table in the illustrations, the six sides are 24 inches (61cm); cut off a 30 degree angle from each end (leaving 60 degrees). Of course, when pairs of sides are put together while forming the band, the resulting table corner is 120 degrees.

Fit the ends together to form a hexagon with equal sides, then fasten the ends with 2 1/2 inch (6.35cm) galvanized or corrosion resistant wood screws. Pre-drill the holes through one side of these corners so they grip tightly and don't split.

Check to make sure each side is equal after the sides are fastened together by measuring across parallel sides. For the example project, each side is about 45 inches (114cm). A simple trick to keep the sides from slipping or moving, toenail two sides with wood screws to the table top until the spokes, or internal framing members are fastened.

Cut a two by four to fit between two opposite corners, making a 30 degree cut, at each end, off the corner on each side to the center of the 2 inch (5cm) way. You might scribe these cuts, if you are unable to get an accurate measurement.

Fasten this 2X4 (5cm X 10cm) at each end with wood screws. Again pre-drill the band so the wood doesn't split and the screws pull up tightly. This assembly will be the basic support for the tabletop, and fitting everything flush (straight and aligned) and tightly joined together will give you a good, solid finished table.

Cut the four spokes. Measure the length of the spoke from the center of the transverse 2X4 inch (5cm X 10cm) out to one corner. Cut your spoke to that length.

To cut the angles on the spoke, first scribe the center of the 2 inch (5cm) way on each end. Then cut the outer pointed-end of each spoke by cutting off 30 degrees from each edge to your scribed center.

The hub-end will be cut 30 degrees to the center mark off one edge only, and 90 degrees off this end cut, from the center, to the other edge, thus dropping 60 degrees -- or after cutting 30 you could cut off 60 degrees to the center off the second edge, which would automatically leave that desired 90 (since 30+90+60 = 180).

Fasten these spokes in by screwing the first two on one side through the center board, and the opposite by toenailing with wood screws through the bevelled end. Again, pre-drill holes where possible, especially when fastening very near the end of the board.

Check the finished frame to make sure it is symmetrical and all sides are equal. Check that the edges are flush on both the top and bottom. Be aware that even finished lumber may vary slightly in width and thickness, so this step is important for a good finished project.

Cut 6 boards for the standards that will support the table top on the base frame, and 6 diagonal braces to help support them. The leg pieces in the illustrations are 10 inches (25cm) long, and the diagonal braces are 6 inches (15cm) long, 45 degrees on each end.

Pre-drill holes where fasteners will attach the supports to the frame. Then fasten the braces to these members. Keep the screws flush to the frame so each member can fit tightly in place. Use the same 2 1/2 inch #10 corrosion resistant wood screws.^[1]

Fit each standard in place. Secure the braces and check to make sure everything is in the proper location.

Place an 8 foot (243cm) 2X4 inch (5cm X 10cm) across two opposite corners on top of these posts and center it between them. Then fasten it in place with screws.

Mark the center of this board. Draw a line down on each side with a square to mark the location where the radial boards that will support the seats will be fastened. Cut four of these with the same 30 degree angles centered on each side of one end.

Fasten these spoke members in place on the center board and on top of the posts at each end. Then brace them with diagonal braces, if you want, for extra support.

Cut 2X4 inch (5cm X 10cm) boards 12 inches (30cm) long with 30 degree off each end (ie: 60 degrees angles). Then fit them between the spoke boards to brace them. Make sure they are equal, as these will keep the seat support boards in position during the rest of the table assembly.

Cut six 14 inch (35cm) 2X4 inch (5cm X 10cm), square on each end, and six 10 inch (25cm) diagonal braces with 45 degree angles on each end.

Fasten the 14 inch (35cm) boards on the end and flush with the bottom of the spoke boards radiating from the center hub of the upper section of the framework you have assembled. Use a larger, heavier screw for this attachment, since it will be supporting the weight of the table and its occupants when the project is finished and the table is in use.

Fasten the diagonal braces to these legs, again, making sure the assembly is square and tight-fitting.

Check the finished assembly to make sure all fasteners are holding tightly and everything is sturdy and sound. Add screws to any connections that seem loose, and replace any boards that have split or do not seem sound.

Roll the framework off the assembly table so that it stands on the ground upside down from the assembly position. The legs should rest firmly on the ground or your work surface. If any seem to be too long or out of square, you might trim them, but that shouldn't be necessary, if they are all cut and fitted correctly.^[2]

Begin fastening the table top lumber on the hub assembly. The illustrations show 5/4 X 6 inch (3cm x 15cm) deck boards with radius edges, cedar or redwood, or 2 X 4 inch (5cm x 10cm) treated yellow pine can also be used.

Center the first plank on the center line between two opposite corners, checking the distance from opposite edges on opposite ends. Let one end overhand about 3 inches (7.5cm), and screw the plank down to hold it in place. Continue adding planks until one side is almost covered.

Make a line parallel to the supporting frame about 3 inches (7.5cm) outside that frame and cut the planks off with a circular saw. Save the drops (cut off ends) of these planks to finish the side you are working on and to start the other side. Make sure you fasten the planks securely; they may warp or twist, if exposed to the weather.

Finish laying and fastening the table top planks. Then trim all sides so they are equal and symmetrical to the base frame. Sand the edges to make sure there are no splinters or rough material to injure users of the table.

Place the seat boards on the 2X4 inch (5cm X 10cm) extending to the outside of the base frame. Each will have a cut approximately 30 degrees, the outside should cover the top of the legs where they fit the ends of the seat supports. Drill pilot holes in the ends of the seat planks so they don't split.

Fit all of the seat boards, taking care to recheck angles and adjusting them so each fits tightly to the adjoining board.

Sand any edges that may have splinters or rough surfaces and round the corners with a sander to avoid injuries to shins as people seat themselves at the finished table.^[3]