How to Replace a Toilet

Co-authored by Dave Jones

Last Updated: January 20, 2023 References

Replacing a toilet is not necessarily a job for a professional plumber. Many DIY type people can take on this project with the right tools and planning. Read the instruction below to find out how to remove your old toilet and correctly install a new one with ease!

Method 1

Method 1 of 4:

Removing the Old Toilet

1
Get rid of all the water. Turn off the water at the supply valve.^{[1]
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Research source} Flush the toilet to remove most of the water (holding down the flusher for as long as possible). Remove the remaining water from the bowl by forcing it down with a plunger and mopping up the remaining water with a sponge. Then, remove the remaining water in the tank with the sponge as well.^{[2]
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2
Disconnect the line. Disconnect the supply line using a wrench. You may want to take the opportunity to replace the line.^{[3]
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Research source} If keeping the line, only disconnect it where it attaches to the toilet.

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3
Remove the bolts. Take the caps (they look a little like domes) off of the bolts at the base of the toilet, then remove those bolts. After that, remove the bolts connecting the tank to the seat.^{[4]
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4
Remove the tank. Straddling the bowl, place a hand on either side of the base of the tank and lift it off, rocking it side-to-side a little to ease it off and making sure to bend with your knees. Put it somewhere out of the way but be sure to put it somewhere water resistant, as there may be residual water.^{[5]
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5
Remove the seat using your legs to lift it. Now you can remove the rest of the toilet. Grab the toilet and rock it side-to-side to break the wax seal underneath and lift it off the bolts. If the bolts are badly rusted and the toilet is getting caught, you may need to cut off as much of the bolts as you can see using a hacksaw. Remove the toilet and put it on a towel or old blanket to prevent damage to your floor until you’re able to remove the toilet from the bathroom.^{[6]
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Method 2

Method 2 of 4:

Preparing Your New Toilet

1
Plug the hole. Using an old rag balled up, plug the hole, as you will want to prevent gases from rising into your home and keep tools from disappearing into the floor! Just remember to remove this rag when you put the new toilet in place.
2
Remove the old bolts. Pull the old bolts out of the flange (you will probably need to pull them to the side a little, as are placed like a nail hanging a picture frame). Dispose of the old bolts in an appropriate manner.
3
Remove the wax seal. Remove everything that remains of the old wax seal. You can use a putty knife, a rag, and any other tools you need. Wipe it clean when you are done.
4
Inspect the flange. This is the round plastic or metal circle which was under the wax. Inspect the flange: if it looks damaged it may need to be replaced. You can also buy an adaptor (or super flange) if the original is a bit cracked or damaged.^{[7]
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5
Replace the bolts. With the flange in good shape, you can now place new bolts into the flange. They should go in the long channels, in much the same way you hang a picture frame.^{[8]
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6
Place the new wax seal. Place the new toilet on its side on top of a towel or other padded surface. Then place the new wax seal over the hole, with the plastic or rubber facing out. Push it hard into place and turn it slightly like a doorknob to get it to stick in place.^{[9]
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7
Remove the rag. This is very important! Don’t forget to remove the rag!

Method 3

Method 3 of 4:

Placing Your New Toilet

1
Place the toilet. Lift the new toilet and place it so that the anchor bolts go through the holes in the base of the toilet. It will be easier if you remove the new tank first and only put in the base, if the toilet came pre-assembled.^{[10]
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2
Seal the wax ring. Rock the bowl back and forth a little and press it firmly downwards, either by pressing with your arms and hands or by sitting on the toilet. This will help seal the new wax ring.^{[11]
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3
Replace the nuts and washers. At the base of the toilet, put in the new washers and nuts. Do not immediately put them on tight though! Place a level across the seat of the toilet and use wood shims underneath the base to make sure the toilet is level. Then, tighten the nuts on each side, alternating between the two sides, tightening just a little at a time to make sure the toilet is kept level. Do not tighten the nuts too much: you don’t want to crack your new toilet!
- Make sure you’re being careful at this point not to move the toilet too much, as this will cause the seal on the toilet to break.
4
Place the bolt caps. Place the new caps on the anchor bolts. If they are too high, you can trim them down with a hacksaw.^{[12]
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5
Insert tank bolts and gasket. Next, take the new tank and place it on its side. Insert the tank bolts and washers from the inside of the tank and then put the tank-to-bowl gasket around the hole at the base.
6
Place and secure the tank. Take the tank and place it on the main part of the toilet, so that the bolts fit through the appropriate holes. Then add washers and nuts and tighten them, alternating sides as you did with the toilet base. Make sure not to make it too tight.^{[13]
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Method 4

Method 4 of 4:

Adding Finishing Touches

1
Install the toilet valve assembly. You may need to install the valve assembly (all the parts inside the tank) if it is not pre-installed. There should be appropriate instructions on the packaging when you purchase the assembly, but you can also ask your local hardware store employee for advice.^{[14]
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2
Install the toilet seat lid and ring. If they were not already installed, you will need to secure these to the toilet with the appropriate bolts.
3
Reconnect the supply line. Reconnect the water supply line, using either the new line or the old one if it was in good shape.
4
Turn the water back on. Try flushing a few times once the water is on to make sure there are no leaks.^{[15]
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5
Caulk the base of the toilet. Choose an appropriate caulk and thoroughly caulk around the base of the toilet. Once this is dry then you’re done.^{[16]
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- You may prefer to omit this last step. If you have a leaking wax seal on your toilet, or if a wax ring seal leak develops later, you will trap water under the base of the toilet. If the sub-floor is wood it will eventually rot it out leading to all sorts of problems when repairs are necessary.

Community Q&A

Question

Can I stack wax rings?

Community Answer

No, it only works temporarily and is done by many an "expert" plumber. Forget the wax and go wax-free with a silicone foam ring, they handle a much larger gap for improper toilet installations.
Question

What is the main problem when one has the mount bolt distance of 14" instead of 12" from the wall? Can a standard commode still be used?

Community Answer

Yes. Rough-in size is the measurement from the wall to the center of the floor-mounting bolts. You can’t put a 12” rough-in toilet in a 10” roughed in floor, but you can use a standard commode with 14" distance. But this is for the base only. Be sure to account for tank size as far as how far off the back of the base it overhangs.
Question

I have a round shape toilet bowl. Can I replace it with an oval shape bowl? The distance of floor bolts to wall is 11 1/4 inches.

Community Answer

The toilet you are measuring is actually 12 inch rough in. An oval shape toilet will go right on with no problems. Be sure to check the toilet flange in the floor for cracks. If it is cracked, replace or repair it and then put the new wax seal. This is not hard to do. Just take your time.