How to Raise Frogs

Feed tadpoles small amounts of certain soft, leafy greens. Tadpoles thrive best on a diet of soft plant matter, which should be given to them in small quantities whenever they run out of food. Leaves with algae growing on them can be collected from stream or pond bottoms and fed to the tadpoles. Alternatively, rinse baby spinach (never adult spinach), dark green lettuce, or papaya leaves thoroughly, chop them into small pieces, and freeze them before feeding. You can also feed them very small pieces of peas that have been soaked in luke-warm water and placed on the surface of the water. ^[10] Check with a pet store employee or online before you feed the tadpoles any other type of plant.

• Fish food flakes are not typically as high quality as straight vegetables, but can be used if they contain mostly spirulina or other vegetable matter, not animal protein.^[11] Crush large flakes into tiny pieces and feed a pinch a day.

Feed the tadpoles the occasional insect. While tadpoles should be given a little animal protein occasionally, their digestive systems cannot handle large amounts of it. To keep these protein supplements to safe levels, and ensure that the tadpoles are able to eat them, use frozen food intended for fish fry, such as frozen bloodworms or daphnia.^[12] Give these to the tadpoles in small quantities once a week. You may feed them larger quantities of insects once they become frogs, although they may not eat for a short time following the change.

• Fish fry food is available wherever live fish are sold.

Clean the water regularly. Whenever the water becomes cloudy or smelly, or when the tadpoles stay clustered near the top of the tank, it is time to change the water. Make sure to use the same type of water the tadpoles are swimming in, treated with dechlorination tablets if necessary. Leave the new water out until it is the same temperature as the existing water, or the temperature change could kill the tadpoles. Replace 30–50% of the old water with the new water at a time.^[13]

• The water will stay cleaner for longer if you don't feed the tadpoles large amounts of food at once. Each serving of food should be gone within 12 hours at most, and then immediately replaced.
• Avoid using aquarium water filters to keep the tank clean, unless you are sure they are too weak to drag the tadpoles in or force them to swim against the current.^[14] Sponge filters can be used safely.

Provide calcium. Tadpoles need calcium to grow their skeletons, and may not be able to acquire enough from their regular diet. Pet stores sometimes sell cuttlebone for this purpose, which should be rinsed thoroughly before placing in the container, then left there permanently. Alternatively, use a liquid calcium supplement intended for aquariums, adding one or drops for every quart (liter) of water whenever you change the water.^[15]

• Once cuttlebone piece about 2 inches (10 cm) long should be enough for a small tank.

Prepare for metamorphosis. Depending on the species and age, the tadpoles may become frogs within a couple weeks or take several months. Once they develop legs and begin to lose their tail, the froglets should try to exit the water. Have a plan prepared as soon as you start to see changes in your tadpoles:

• Most frogs cannot breathe underwater indefinitely, so be sure they have a rock or other non-metal platform at the edge of the tank to climb onto and reach the air. A few species will fail to climb out on their own, so you may need to lift them out with a soft net once their tails are half gone.^[16]
• Attach a secure lid to your tank, with plenty of air holes. Weigh it down with heavy objects if it does not latch shut to prevent the frogs leaping out.

Know how to release the frogs. If you caught your tadpoles locally, you may release the frogs in an area of damp vegetation near the same water source you caught them in. If you cannot release them immediately, keep them in a plastic tank with a cover of leaf litter, and bark pieces large enough to hide under. Do not fill the tank with water, but provide a shallow water dish for the frogs to sit in, and spray the tank's sides with water once a day.^[17]

• If you wish to keep raising your frogs, or if you need to care for the frogs for more than a day before releasing them, continue on to the next section.

Find out the needs of your frog species before you acquire the animal. Some species of frogs require extensive care, so make sure you know the needs of your frog species before you acquire a new pet. If you are a beginner, you may wish to start with a non-poisonous species that do not grow to a large adult size.^[18] Many frog species don't like to be handled or remain still for large periods of time, which may make them less interesting for children.

• You may wish to choose a local species which you can legally release back into the wild if you change your mind about raising it.
• Be aware that some national or regional governments require an amphibian license or forbid the raising of frogs entirely. Search online for laws which apply to your region.

Learn whether your frog live on land, in water, or both. Many frog species need access to both land and water in order to thrive, which may require a special two-part aquarium tank that allows it to move between the two. Others only require a shallow water dish to sit in, while still others are entirely aquatic and can breathe underwater even in adult form. Make sure you know your frog's needs before setting up a tank.

• If you collected your frogs from the wild, get a biologist or someone from the nearest department of natural resources to identify the species.

Find a glass or clear plastic pet tank. Glass aquarium tanks or terrarium tanks are best suited for most frog species. Clear plastic tanks will work as well, but be aware that some frog species require an ultraviolet light which could damage the plastic over a long period of time.^[19] Make sure the tank is waterproof and escape-proof, but also contains plenty of air holes or mesh for ventilation.

• Do not use metal mesh, as the frogs could injure themselves on it.^[20]
• For tree frogs and other climbing frogs, pick a large, tall tank with room for place branches and climbing structures.

Maintain the tank's temperature and humidity. Whether or not you need a heater and/or humidifier for your tank depends greatly on your frog species and local climate, so seek expert advice or search online for more information about your species' temperature requirements. If you need to keep the tank to a certain humidity, consider purchasing a hygrometer to measure this number so you can spray the sides with water if it drops too low.

• In a two-part tank setup (air and water), heating the water with an aquarium heater may be the most effective way to keep the tank warm.^[21]

Cover the bottom of the tank with natural material. Whether in air or water, the frog needs a natural base to walk on. Once again, the exact way you should accomplish this depends on species. A pet store employee or experienced frog owner who knows your species may recommend sand, gravel, peat, moss, or a mixture of these.^[22]

• Burrowing species require a thicker layer to dig into.

Provide an ultraviolet light if necessary. Some frogs require an ultraviolet light for 6–8 hours a day.^[23] Research your species to find out if this is necessary, and ask a pet shop employee about which UV light to use. There are many types, some of which may overheat your tank or provide them with the wrong wavelengths of light.^[24]

• As for regular artificial lighting, fluorescent lights produce less heat and therefore dry out the frog's skin less quickly than incandescent bulbs.

Provide clean water and change regularly. For land-dwelling species, provide a dish of rainwater or other frog-safe water large enough that the frogs can sit in it up to their shoulders. If the frog species requires a two-part tank or a fully aquatic tank, treat it as you would an aquarium tank. This means using rainwater or other frog-safe water, installing an aquarium aerator and a water filter, and replacing 30–50% of the water with clean water at the same temperature whenever it gets cloudy or bad-smelling. Change once every 1–3 weeks for best results, depending on how crowded the tank is.

• Tap water can be treated with dechlorination tablets and, if necessary, a fluoride filter to make it safe for use by frogs. Do not use tap water if your plumbing has copper pipes, as the trace amounts of copper can be toxic to frogs.^[25]
• If your tank is kept warm, as it should be for some species, warm the new cold water to the correct temperature in a stainless steel saucepan. Do not use hot tap water.

Add plants or branches if necessary. Underwater aquarium plants in underwater portions of the tank may help clean and oxygenate the water, and provide hiding places which frogs enjoy. Climbing frogs need natural or artificial climbing branches, while most frog species enjoy hiding spots such as large, upside down bark segments.

Choose a selection of appropriate, live food. Almost all frog species eat live insects in the wild, and sticking to a diet of varied insects is usually a good choice.^[26] Worms, crickets, moths, and insect larvae are usually appropriate foods, and many frogs are not picky about what they eat if they are not used to a particular diet already.^[27] However, it is always a good idea to check what your species requires, and to provide it with food appropriate to the size of its mouth. Mice or other non-insect meat can strain the frogs' organs unless they belong to a large species that had adapted to live on this type of protein.

• Do not feed your frog large ants, which are capable of killing frogs.
• Many frogs will not recognize non-moving objects as food, but you could try to feed a frog individual dead insects by holding them near its mouth with a pair of tweezers.

Coat the food in calcium and vitamin supplements for amphibians. Frogs require a source of calcium, vitamins, or both, since they cannot get enough of these nutrients from insects alone. Amphibian vitamin and calcium supplements are available in powdered form for sprinkling on the insects before feeding. There are many brands of supplements available, and the best one to use depends on the frog's diet and characteristics. As a general rule, use separate calcium supplement and vitamin supplement, not past the expiration date, and avoid high-phosphorus supplements if crickets are the frog's main food.^[28]

• It may be easiest to place the insects and a small amount of the powder in a container and shake the container around to coat the insects.

Choose feeding times according to age and climate. The exact needs of your frog depends on species, but you may follow these guidelines if you have no specific instructions that match your species. Young frogs may not eat at all immediately after emerging from the water, but will soon begin to eat rapidly, and have food always available to them. Adult frogs are usually fine being fed once every three or four days, eating 4–7 insects appropriate for their size. During cooler weather, frogs do not require as much food.^[29]

• Remove dead insects floating in the water whenever you see them.