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Before buying a concrete garage it is extremely important to lay a solid concrete base. This will ensure that the garage remains structurally sound, and avoid the garage door opening mechanism failing.
Steps
Method 1
Method 1 of 2:
Site Preparation
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1In order to make the shuttering easier and to ensure consistent thickness, prepare the ground and get it as flat as possible.
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2Assess the firmness of the ground. If the ground is too soft, use hardcore to firm up.Advertisement
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3If you have soft ground, consider using a steel mesh to reinforce the concrete.[1]
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4Install a damp proof membrane if the site where you are erecting the base is prone to damp. Make sure the membrane is added to the whole of the base to avoid cracking.[2]
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5If you are installing the base adjacent to a wall, use damp proof between the concrete and the wall, otherwise damp may transfer.
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Method 2
Method 2 of 2:
The Shuttering
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1Set up your shuttering at least one or two days prior to pouring the concrete.[3]
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2Make sure the shuttering is securely pinned in place with time stakes.
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3Walk on your shuttering and make sure it is absolutely solid, and doesn’t move.
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4Use a strong timber that will remain straight and not bow.[4]
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5Ensure the height of the shuttering has been measured in accordance with your chosen concrete thickness.
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6Check that the shuttering is completely flat, level, square and over sized – about 150mm longer and wider to allow for any discrepancies.[5]
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7Make a removable door within the shuttering, so that you can get access to the area with your wheelbarrow holding the concrete.
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8"The concrete pour"
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9Before you order the concrete, make sure your site is fully prepared.
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10Ensure you have a rake, tamp, shovel, float, spirit level, gloves, wellington boots, hose pipe and wheelbarrow ready to use.[6]
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11Order the exact amount of premixed concrete to be delivered. Ask for a wet mix which will give you a little more time to spread the concrete.
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12Where possible, have the concrete poured directly into the base. If this is not possible, have it poured directly into the wheelbarrow.
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13Use the rake to get the concrete as level as possible.
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14Use the hose pipe to clean off any concrete spillages before it dries.
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15Smooth the concrete with a ‘straight edged’ tamp that is just wider than the concrete base. Guide the tam across the shuttering to remove any excess concrete.
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16Once the concrete is spread, re-insert the shuttering.
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17Smooth the outer edge of the concrete with a float (around 250mm).
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18Leave the shuttering in place for a few days before removing.
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19Allow the concrete to set for at least a week before installing your concrete garage.
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20If rain looks likely, cover the base with plastic sheeting.
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21"Important"
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22Don’t wash concrete down the drains as it will settle, causing the drain to block.
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23Laying a base is much easier when done in two’s. inches from the base of the the concrete
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Community Q&A
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QuestionHow thick is the base?Community AnswerCheck with your municipality. But, typically, the tamped base should be equal to your concrete's thickness (i.e. 4-inch base for 4-inch slab). Though, 6-inches of each is largely the new norm for vehicles in most areas now, with 4-inch only being for walkways, sidewalks, basements, patios, etc.
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QuestionSo I don't need to use hardcore? Just level the earth, use shuttering and then metal reinforcement, cover with polythene and then concrete?Community AnswerIf the earth is hard, maybe. If it is soil, no. Once the hardcore is laid, it needs to be compacted using a 'wacker' - a petrol-driven machine that vibrates the hardcore into a solid mass. Hardcore is composed of different-sized crushed stone pieces, so it moves until all the gaps are filled. You can compact soil, but hard to get it level. The risk with just soil is that your concrete cracks where softer ground 'gives'. Don't forget, too, that with soil there are worms - however hard you ram it, they will appear, constantly weakening the structure.
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QuestionCan I construct a concrete base in small sections over a number of days?Community AnswerIt's very difficult to get a good finish when doing this since the joins between each section will be visible, and it is very hard to smooth the join if it's wet on one side and dry on another. If you have to do this, put in wooden separators, like the shuttering, and do one section a day.
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References
- ↑ https://www.cementaustralia.com.au/diy/how-lay-concrete-slab
- ↑ https://www.ecotileflooring.com/news/damp-proof-membranes-5-things-know/
- ↑ https://nucrete.co.uk/base-laying-tips-for-concrete-garages/
- ↑ https://theconstructor.org/building/formwork-shuttering/types-of-formwork-shuttering/3767/
- ↑ https://nucrete.co.uk/base-laying-tips-for-concrete-garages/
- ↑ https://www.hanson.co.uk/en/ready-mixed-concrete/technical-information/prepare-for-a-concrete-pour
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