Tailor Your Dress: Bigger, Smaller, or Tighter — The Easy Beginner's Guide

Co-authored by Alessio Iadicicco and Hannah Madden

Last Updated: November 25, 2022 References

Sometimes you find the perfect dress but it’s just not quite the right size. The great news is that you don’t have to put it back on the rack! There are a few simple ways you can tailor a dress to make it a few sizes bigger or a few sizes smaller. We’ve answered some of your questions so you can make your dress fit your body perfectly.

Part 1

Part 1 of 6:

How many sizes can you alter a dress?

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In general, you can alter a dress 1 to 2 sizes. It’s usually easier to make a dress smaller than it is to make one larger, but both can be done. If you need your dress tailored more than a few sizes, it’s probably best to bring it to a professional.^{[1]
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- Dresses made out of cotton and linen are very easy to tailor, while chiffon, organza, and jersey fabrics can be harder to work with.
- Vintage clothes usually have a larger fit. So, if you're working with a vintage dress, focus your changes on making it smaller, especially on the shoulders.

Part 2

Part 2 of 6:

How do I make my dress tighter?

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Pin the dress so it fits your body. Put your dress on and hold it tightly against your body (as tight as you want it to fit at the end of your tailoring). Use sewing pins to hold the fabric in place, going from the arm hole down to the bottom hem on each side of the dress. When you’re done, carefully take the dress off without disturbing the pins.^{[2]
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Flip the dress inside out, then mark the inside. Turn the dress inside out so you can see the seams. Grab a marker and draw a straight line down both sides of the dress following the sewing pins. When you’ve drawn your line, you can take the pins out.^{[3]
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Sew a straight stitch down both side seams of the dress. Take your dress over to your sewing machine and load it with thread that matches your dress color. Use a straight stitch to sew down the lines you made on the inside of your dress. When you’re done, flip your dress right side out and try on your new snug garment! If the side seams are too bulky, use scissors to cut off the excess fabric from the inside of the dress.^{[4]
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- Some dresses, like formal ones, should be opened at the seams in order to take them in with a nice finish.
Expert Answer

Q

How do you make the shoulders of a dress smaller?

Alessio Iadicicco
Apparel Manufacturing Specialist
Alessio Iadicicco is an Apparel Manufacturing Specialist and the CEO and Co-Founder of MarkersValley, an online apparel and manufacturer sourcing platform that connects luxury fashion brands to a network of highly-vetted, truly Italian manufacturers. He holds a Bachelor's degree in Economy and Management of Financial Enterprises from The University of Naples Federico II. MarkersValley has connected fashion brands in over 100 countries and has a network of over 100 independent Italian factories and artisans. MarkersValley has been featured in Forbes, EQ, St. Louis Business Journal, Il Mattino, and Corriere Della Sera.

EXPERT ADVICE

Answer from Alessio Iadicicco:

If you don't want to take everything apart, try creating pleats on the shoulders by sewing them from the inside. This will raise up the shoulder and the torso more, creating a soft drape on the chest.

Part 3

Part 3 of 6:

How do you take a dress in at the waist?

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Pin your dress to see how much you need to take in. Put your dress on and pinch the waist on both sides to see how much you want to take in. Use safety pins to hold the fabric in place while you carefully take the dress off.^{[5]
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- If you only want to take the dress in temporarily, you can pin it and just make some small stitches by hand.
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Draw a triangle shape on the inside of the waist. Turn your dress inside out and draw a triangular shape on both sides of the waist with the point facing downwards. This triangle shape is called a dart, and it will help pinch the fabric in to take in the dress.^{[6]
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Sew 2 darts on either side of the dress. With the dress still turned inside out, fold the triangle over itself so the edges line up. Pin the edges down, then sew along the lines using a straight stitch. Do this on both sides of your waist to take them in.^{[7]
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Part 4

Part 4 of 6:

How do you let out a dress?

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Rip the seams on the side of the dress. Figure out where the dress is tight on you (usually it’s the waist or the bust). Grab your seam ripper and rip out the section that’s tight on either side of the dress.^{[8]
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Cut out a triangular piece of fabric to fit each side. Spread your dress out flat and hold the seams apart from each other as far as they’ll go. Grab a piece of fabric that matches the color of your dress, then cut out a triangular section that lines up with the opening in the seams. Add about 1 in (2.5 cm) around the entire triangle for a seam allowance as you cut.^{[9]
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Sew the new fabric into the seams. Turn the dress inside out and line the triangle up with the ripped seams. Use sewing pins to attach the triangle in place, then sew it down using a zig zag stitch. Turn your dress right side out before you put it on!^{[10]
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Part 5

Part 5 of 6:

How do you fix a dress that’s too big without sewing?

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Take in your dress with safety pins. Turn your dress inside out and gather a small section of fabric at the front of the dress just below your bust line. Slide a safety pin into the fabric, bunching it up so it stays gathered. Close the safety pin and turn the dress right side out for an instantly form-fitting dress.^{[11]
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- If the waist of your dress is too big, you can use the same bunching method on either side of your waist.

Part 6

Part 6 of 6:

How do you shape a shapeless dress?

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Add a belt around your waist. It’s an easy way to show off your curves and give an old dress new life. Grab your belt and tie it around the smallest part of your waist (usually above your hips). If you don’t have a belt, use a scarf instead.^{[12]
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Expert Q&A

Question

How long does a tailor usually take for a dress?

Essie Karimi
Professional Tailor
Essie Karimi is a Professional Tailor and the Owner of Sew Fit Tailoring & Alterations, a sewing shop that has been operating for over 40 years. Essie specializes in tailoring, alterations, sewing, repairs, and redesign. Essie works on a variety of clothing types, including wedding dresses, formal wear, casual wear, sportswear, swimwear, and uniforms.

Essie Karimi

Professional Tailor

Expert Answer

A tailor typically takes about 1 hour to hem and adjust the size of a dress. That's the most normal alteration done, but some changes can take anywhere from 10 minutes to 4 hours.
Question

How can I make my dress tighter in my bust?

Essie Karimi
Professional Tailor
Essie Karimi is a Professional Tailor and the Owner of Sew Fit Tailoring & Alterations, a sewing shop that has been operating for over 40 years. Essie specializes in tailoring, alterations, sewing, repairs, and redesign. Essie works on a variety of clothing types, including wedding dresses, formal wear, casual wear, sportswear, swimwear, and uniforms.

Essie Karimi

Professional Tailor

Expert Answer

Take in the side seam lines! Open the seam line and cut the extra fabric, making sure that the style doesn't change a whole lot. Make adjustments gradually so you're not taking in 1 side and making bolts on the other.