How to Make Straight Hair Into Afro Hair

Co-authored by Shun Pittman

Last Updated: December 15, 2021

Many straight-haired people look on afros with jealousy. It may seem difficult, but it is possible to train your straight hair into a luxuriously full afro by getting a perm. You can also do it at home by braiding your hair. Perms create more of a tightly curled afro look, while the braiding method will give you a crimped wave pattern. ^{[1]
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Research source} So the best way to decide which method is right for you is to decide what kind of style you want to achieve.

Method 1

Method 1 of 3:

How to Get Started

1
Select the style you want for your afro hair. Once you know the look you are going for, you can figure out the best way to try and achieve it. You will want to figure out if your desired style will require you to grow or trim your hair. If so, it is better to trim your hair beforehand so you have less hair to transition into your afro look.
2
Trim or grow your hair to the desired length. To create an afro with straight hair, it is best to start with at least 4-6" of length.^{[2]
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Research source} Your hair needs to be long enough to braid or put in rods. If your hair is longer than 12" in length, you may want to trim the hair if your goal is to achieve an afro that stands up.

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3
Wash your hair with your regular shampoo. Rinse your hair thoroughly. It is important to start with clean hair that is free of natural oils. Clean hair will also make it easier to work with your hair when putting it in braids or rollers.

Method 2

Method 2 of 3:

How to Perm

1
Get a perm at a salon. Observe the techniques the stylists use. Watch how they put the curlers in your hair. That way, even after your perm grows out, you can temporarily get tight curls at home by wrapping your hair around small perm rods while it's wet.^{[3]
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Expert Source

Shun Pittman
Master Cosmetologist, Global Salon Educator & Author
Expert Interview. 14 April 2021.}
- If your hair is chemically treated—like it's been colored or relaxed—a perm may not be the best solution for you. The additional chemicals can damage your hair and cause it to break. However, you can still get a temporary set with perm rods.^{[4]
  X
  Expert Source
  
  Shun Pittman
  Master Cosmetologist, Global Salon Educator & Author
  Expert Interview. 14 April 2021.}
2
Request the smallest possible curlers. Your stylist will use a series of plastic perm rods to give you a perm. Small rods are best to create the tightest afro. If the rods are too big, your perm will only achieve a wavy look instead of the afro look you are going for.
3
Wait a few days to allow the perm to settle. Don't shampoo or comb your hair for a day or two immediately after your perm. Letting the perm settle will help the effects of the perm to last longer and keep your hair healthy.
4
Comb out your curls with a wide-toothed pick comb to separate the curls. The goal is to loosen up the curls just enough to make it possible to backcomb.
- You can also use your fingers to gently separate the curls.
5
Expand the curls by combing with a fine-tooth comb. You can also use a 3-row teasing brush. This will further separate the curls and give your hair a fuller afro look.^{[5]
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Research source}
- Hold a small section of hair taut with your fingers. Smaller sections will make for greater volume in your hair but will take a bit longer to do.
- Use a fine-toothed comb or 3-row teasing brush to gently comb the hair downward toward your scalp. Use just enough pressure to create some tangles, but not so much that the hair breaks.
- Repeat until the section has the desired volume.
6
Style your afro. Ditch your combs! Shape your afro hair with your hands and a pick comb. Only apply hairspray to help it hold if needed. Since curly hair tends to get dry, you can apply a light shine spray regularly to help keep your hair moisturized and glossy.

Method 3

Method 3 of 3:

How to Braid

1
Part your hair into at least 6 or 8 even sections, going from your forehead back to your neck. Use a comb to achieve a precise part. Working with hair that is slightly damp might make it easier as well. You can use hair ties or clips to hold the sections as you create them.
2
Cornrow each section of hair. Ask for help if you have a hard time braiding your own hair. Depending on how many sections you decide to braid, this step could take several hours, so you might appreciate the help and the company.
- If your braid is thicker than a half inch, you need to section off your hair in smaller widths. A braid that is too thick will only achieve wavy hair. Make smaller sections of tighter braids to give yourself the fullest afro possible.
3
Wet your hair again and apply styling product. A volumizing mousse or setting lotion will help to create firm, long-lasting curls.
- To simplify this step, you can make a solution of 20% setting lotion or gel and 80% water and saturate the braids with the solution.^{[6]
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  Research source}
4
Cover your hair with a satin scarf until dry.
- Start with wet or damp hair before bed. If you have fine hair, you may be ready to finish your afro when you get up in the morning.
- If you don't want to wait for your hair to air dry, you can use a hair dryer to dry the braids faster.
5
Remove the braids. Make sure the braids are completely dry before taking them out. If your hair seems tangled, apply a pea-sized amount of a moisturizer like shea or coconut butter to the remaining braids to make the rest of the process easier.
6
Tousle your hair with your fingers. If you have long hair, bend over and let the weight of your hair and gravity help the process. Your hair should appear much more crimped than before.
7
Backcomb any areas that need more volume. If there are any areas where you feel like your afro looks a little flat, use your fine-tooth comb or 3-row teasing brush to add extra volume at the roots. Repeat until your hair has the desired fullness.
- Do not use too much pressure when backcombing. You don't want the hair to break.
8
Set with styling product if needed. A little hairspray is all you need to hold your afro in place. You can carry a pick comb around to keep your afro detangled and looking fabulous everywhere you go.

Expert Q&A

Question

How do I do this myself with rollers at home?

Shun Pittman
Master Cosmetologist, Global Salon Educator & Author
Shun Pittman is a Master Cosmetologist, Author, Owner, and Founder of Corps d’Elite Salon and Corps d’Elite Beauty. With over 25 years of international experience, she is dedicated to and specializes in providing luxury salon services to all hair types and textures and every skin tone and shade. Her services include hair conditioning treatments, cutting, coloring, styling, extensions, and makeup application. Shun has experience working with, coaching, training, and mentoring beauty professionals from multiple companies including L'Oréal, Wella, Matrix, Paul Mitchell, Redken, Big Sexy Hair, and Toni & Guy. She is also a host for national and local media outlets and her work has been featured in The Washingtonian, The Cheddar Network, and WJLA Good Morning Washington's Beauty and Fashion Police segments. Shun is the author of “50 Things Your Hairdresser Wants YOU to Know (and a few things we don’t...)".

Shun Pittman

Master Cosmetologist, Global Salon Educator & Author

Expert Answer

First you'll need to see your stylist for the right haircut and texture. Then, you can set your hair with small rollers, rods, or drinking straws. Shampoo your hair first and then condition it. Select a firm-hold setting lotion to apply to your hair. You may want to add a little lubrication and shine by using a lightweight oil or serum. Section the hair into small sections. Then, roll each section onto the selected tool (making certain the ends are smooth—otherwise the set will be frizzy). Once each strand of hair is secured on your tool of choice, allow the hair to dry completely (a hooded hair dryer will dry the hair the fastest). When your hair is dry, remove each tool. You’ll have a head of hair with tight curls. Use a little more serum or oil to help with the styling process, then, using your fingers or a very large tooth comb, dismantle each curl so it expands. Shape the finished look as desired. The setting will last until your next shampoo.
Question

How long will the curls last on the braiding method?

Community Answer

This is all dependent on your type of hair; thin hair may only last a day or two, while curls in thicker hair may last several days.
Question

Do I have to cut my hair to go natural?

Community Answer

Yes if you had previously permed your hair. As your hair grows over time, you get "new growth", which is the hair closest to your scalp, which also has you natural hair texture. Ccut the hair that has already been permed (this is the hair that is away from your scalp) a little bit at a time until your natural textured grows back to the desired length.

Warnings

Don't experiment with products of which you are unsure.

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Both permanent waves and backcombing can do harsh damage to your hair.

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Take extra care with wearing cornrows long-term (though overnight should be fine). If you do not have enough sebum coming out of your scalp to do it safely naturally, you need to use an oil (such as an oil or jojoba), and quite a bit, in order to be safe! If you do not, your cornrows will contract when you wet them while swimming, out in the rain, or bathing/showering. This can lead to severe skin irritation and in extremely rare cases your scalp tearing.

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If you don't have extremely curly hair, it will not come naturally.

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