How to Build a Cedar Fence

Co-authored by Melissa & Michael Gabso

Last Updated: August 21, 2021 References

If enjoying the peace and quiet in your backyard leaves you feeling exposed, a privacy fence may be just what you need. And when it comes to building prominent structures like fences, cedar is one of the best materials out there. It's strong, long-lasting, and naturally water resistant, and makes an attractive addition to any property. To get started building your own fence, you'll first need to identify your property boundaries and dig holes for the support posts. Once those are properly spaced and set, you can install the horizontal rails and begin the process of attaching the individual pickets to shield your idyllic outdoor sanctuary from prying eyes.

Part 1

Part 1 of 4:

Situating Your Fence

1
Find your property line. Before you start planning your project, walk the perimeter of your yard and identify the property stakes that show where your land ends and your neighbor's begins. A metal detector will beep whenever you come across buried marker pins. Sometimes, property stakes are driven above ground. In this case, a colored flag will make them plainly visible.^{[1]
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- Oftentimes there may be a utility or municipality easement along your property lines, so be sure to check for them when you inquire with local authorities for codes and permitting.
- If there's any confusion about how your property lines are drawn, call a surveyor out to have a look.
- Building your fence in the wrong place can have consequences—if you're even slightly over your property line, you could be subjected to a fine, or even asked to take it down.^{[2]
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  Research source} In some cases, it may be safer to build your fence slightly inside the property lines so that you are the only one building and maintaining the fence. This could help protect you against future claims over your fence's placing.
2
Determine how tall your fence should be. To get an idea of how high your fence needs to be, consider its primary purpose. Is it meant to screen the entire backyard from sight, or is it simply to add some rustic character to your surroundings? Putting some thought into your specific needs will allow you to buy just the right amount of materials and avoid wasteful overspending.^{[3]
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- Generally, a privacy fence should be at least 6 feet (1.8 m) tall in order to keep others from being able to see into your property.
- Local ordinances or homeowner's association regulations may limit how tall your fence can be. Review the building codes for your city, county, province, or township to find out how tall your fence can legally be.
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3
Clear the area where your fence will be built. You should clear a work area that includes 2 feet (0.61 m) on both sides of the fence location. Remove all vegetation, obstacles, and debris from the area, then level the ground as best as possible.
4
Call your nationwide "Digline" utility locate number. Before driving, pushing, or digging any more than just a few inches or centimeters - no more than 6 inches (15 centimeters) - in the ground, you must call the "Digline" number and request the locations of utility service companies in your area. This will help you avoid striking or disturbing utility lines in the area. Call at least a full two days prior to disturbing any soil. Follow all directions to avoid any possible fines, liability of repairs, personal or property damage, and even death.
- It is a free call in the U.S.A. The number is 811.
5
Drive stakes where your fence's support posts will go. Set your corner posts first before laying out the rest of your support posts. Drive two temporary steel posts to help you stake the fence. Tie a string between the posts at the top and bottom to act as guidelines. A good rule of thumb is to keep the posts less than 8 feet (2.4 m) apart. Proper spacing will prevent the horizontal rails from sagging over time. Once you've figured out the best place for each post, the stakes will mark their position until you begin construction.^{[4]
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- You could also use marking paint instead of stakes, which would avoid creating a trip hazard.
- To determine the ideal number of posts and spacing between them, try the following: measure the planned fence length (e.g., 75 feet (23 m)); divide it by the maximum recommended post spacing (8 feet (2.4 m)), and, if needed, reduce this divisor by regular intervals (e.g., 7.5 ft, 7 ft, 6.5 ft) until your result is a whole number (without decimals) or very near one (e.g., 7.5 feet (2.3 m) for a 75 foot (23 m) fence). Add one to the result (e.g., 75 / 7.5 = 10; 10 + 1 = 11) to determine the number of posts.
- Take into consideration any gate posts, bracing posts for gates, and corner posts as well.
6
Sight your post lines using string. Run the string from one post marker stake to the next, looping it around the tops of the stakes as you go. Pull the string taut so that it forms a straight line. You'll now have an easier time visualizing the path your fence will follow.^{[5]
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- Use brightly-colored string or yarn that's easy to see so you can survey the prospective fence line from every part of your property.
- The string will create a tripping hazard, so move carefully around your work site to avoid tripping.

Part 2

Part 2 of 4:

Setting the Posts

1
Dig holes for the posts. Use a manual post hole digger to scoop out an opening over each of the spots where your marker stakes are located, pulling up the stakes as you go. For a standard 6 foot (1.8 m) (1.8m) privacy fence, each of your post holes should be approximately 2.5–3 feet (0.76–0.91 m) deep.^{[6]
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Research source} For any fence height, always make sure your posts are at least 20 inches in the ground.^{[7]
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Expert Source

Melissa & Michael Gabso
Remodel & Redesign Experts
Expert Interview. 7 October 2020.} Alternatively, at least 1/3 of the length of the post should be in the ground, and 2/3 of the length of the post should be above ground.
- Be sure to measure the posts you're working with so you'll know exactly how deep you'll need to dig.
- Since gate and corner posts are often larger in diameter, they should be placed far enough in the ground to support the weight of the gate and bracing.
- A gas-powered auger can cut down on your digging time, if you have access to one.^{[8]
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2
Pour gravel into the bottom of the post holes. Add roughly 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) inches per hole. The gravel will provide a more stable base for the posts and promote drainage within the soil. Over time, this can help safeguard your fence posts from rotting, splitting, and other moisture-related complications.^{[9]
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- You can also use a mixture of aggregate, gravel, and sand for more firmly-packed substrate.
3
Insert the posts into the holes. Slide the ends of the posts into the openings, then slowly lower them as you stand them up. Take a moment to double check that the posts are perfectly straight by plumbing them on both sides with a level, are spaced evenly between posts, and are within your property line before pouring in concrete—sight each post with the one beside it and use your level to ensure that they don't slant.^{[10]
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- Measure the first post you set to confirm that it's the right height. You can use this post as a visual reference when installing the remaining posts. As an alternative, you could install a very tight string line at the desired fence height between the corner posts or corner to gate posts.
- Double check your measurements often and before your concrete sets.
- Cedar posts can be quite heavy, so you may need a couple extra sets of hands for this step.
- Make sure that your bracing material is ready to use on two sides of the post, including 2 stakes, 1x4-inch (2.5x10 cm) or 2x4-inch (2.54x5 cm) lumber, hammer, nails or screws, or an electric drill. This will firmly hold the posts in place while the cement sets.
4
Fill the remaining space with quick set concrete.^{[11]
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Melissa & Michael Gabso
Remodel & Redesign Experts
Expert Interview. 7 October 2020.} Have a helper hold the posts upright, making sure the faces and corners are square. Shovel the wet concrete into the empty space around each post. It will take at least 15 to 20 minutes for the concrete to set. It will take another 24 hours for the concrete to cure.^{[12]
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- Mix your concrete in a wheelbarrow so you can transport it from post to post without difficulty.
- You'll likely need at least 2-3 bags of ready-made concrete for your project.^{[13]
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  Melissa & Michael Gabso
  Remodel & Redesign Experts
  Expert Interview. 7 October 2020.}

Part 3

Part 3 of 4:

Installing the Rails

1
Mark the position of the horizontal rails. For a 6 foot (1.8m) fence, the top rails should sit somewhere around 8 inches (20 cm) beneath the head of the support posts, while the bottom rails should terminate about 9 inches (23 cm) above ground level. Notch a dark line to indicate the outer edge against which the rails will be centered.^{[14]
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- Draw your lines on the lower edge of the top rails and the upper edge of the bottom rails. This will allow you to keep an eye on them while positioning the rails.
- To keep the height of the rails consistent, be sure to measure and mark each post separately.
2
Screw the rails to the support posts. Position the rails at the appropriate height and use a level to make sure they're not lopsided. Crown the rails by sighting down both sides of them to check for any curvature to the rail, and then place the high side up before installing them. Then, attach the rails using heavy-duty 3 inch (7.6 cm) rust-resistant wood screws. For maximum stability, place the screws a couple inches apart at the top and bottom of the rails.^{[15]
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- It may be helpful to pre-drill pilot holes to prevent the end of the rail boards from splitting when you install screw anchors.
- Keep in mind that your rails will go on the backside of the fence (the side visible from your property).^{[16]
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- If you're working alone, you may need to clamp or tie the rails in place until you can fasten them.
3
Trim the ends of the rails. Fire up your circular saw and cut away the excess wood so the rails are even with the support posts. If your privacy fence extends from your home, leave the rails slightly longer on the closest end so that they run flush against the side of the house.^{[17]
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- Make sure that the rail only covers part of the fence post, leaving room for the rail on the other side. Each fence post will hold up two rail posts, one on each side.
- It may be easiest to get your lumber precut if you've already plotted out the dimensions of your fence in detail. That way, you'll be able to simply assemble the separate pieces once they've been properly measured and positioned.

Part 4

Part 4 of 4:

Attaching the Pickets

1
Set the pickets at the appropriate height. The bottom of the pickets, or the vertical slats that will create most of the fence's coverage, should come within about 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) of the ground or just a bit higher to prevent rotting—not too high or too low. One simple way to ensure correct placement is to place a 2x4 on the ground and stand the pickets on top while you line them up. This way, you can guarantee that each of the pickets is the same height.^{[18]
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- Alternatively, you can install two pickets on either end, run a string between them and line up the remaining pickets with the string.
- The exact height of the pickets is largely a matter of preference. You might choose to make the tops of your fence's pickets even with the support posts, or lower them a few inches for a gradated look if your fence is built on a hillside.^{[19]
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- Be sure to occasionally check the pickets to make sure they are plumb, using a level for vertical straightness.
2
Space the pickets evenly. It's a good idea to use a thin spacer, such as a ¹⁄₄ inch (0.64 cm) piece of scrap plywood, to keep the pickets at regular intervals. You'll attach the first picket, then hold the spacer perpendicularly while positioning the next one and so on. This method is much more efficient than stopping to measure each space separately, and much more reliable than trying to eyeball it.^{[20]
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- Since privacy is the goal, it's not recommended that you space the pickets more than ¹⁄₄ inch (0.64 cm) apart.
3
Fasten the pickets into place. Check the placement of the pickets, then nail or screw them to the horizontal rails one at a time. Use 2 nails or screws for each rail to reinforce the attachment site and make sure the fence holds up for a good long time. Repeat until you've filled in each open section of fencing.^{[21]
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- As you did with the rails, it may be helpful to devise a way to hold the pickets steady while you secure them.
4
Spray the completed fence with a protective finish.^{[22]
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Melissa & Michael Gabso
Remodel & Redesign Experts
Expert Interview. 7 October 2020.} A thin layer of semitransparent wood stain or oil-based varnish will help seal the pores in the cedar, improving its odds against the elements. Apply the finish using a pump sprayer or an airless paint sprayer and work one section at a time, aiming for full coverage. Go over both sides of the fence, and don't forget to touch up the exposed end grain, as well.^{[23]
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- While cedar's properties make it naturally water resistant, a quality finish can be invaluable for increasing your fence's lifespan.
- Once the stain or varnish has had time to fully dry, you can proceed to paint your fence if so desired.

Expert Q&A
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Question

Should I put a finish on my fence?

Melissa & Michael Gabso
Remodel & Redesign Experts
Melissa and Michael Gabso are the Owners of MC Construction & Decks based in Los Angeles, California. With over ten years of experience, they specialize in exterior and interior remodeling and redesign, including kitchen, bathroom, and deck construction. MC Construction & Decks also provides plans and permitting services and is known for backyard beautification projects. MG Construction & Decks has been rated as one of the top contractors in the Los Angeles area year after year.

Melissa & Michael Gabso

Remodel & Redesign Experts

Expert Answer

Support wikiHow by unlocking this expert answer.

Yes, we recommend treating the wood with either stain oil or a sealer to protect it from wear.