How to Plant a Tree

Co-authored by Matt Bowman and Amber Crain

If you're preparing to plant a tree, congratulations! Adding even one new tree to our environment makes a significant and positive impact. But how do you properly plant the tree to ensure it grows and thrives? In this article, we'll walk you through the entire process, including scouting a location, planting at the correct depth, and keeping your tree healthy for years to come. Read on for our comprehensive guide to planting a tree!

Part 1

Part 1 of 3:

Timing and Location

1
Select a healthy tree that naturally thrives in your climate. Trees live a long time, so it’s important to pick a local species that won’t struggle to survive. If you aren’t sure which species grow locally, spend some time researching trees that are native to your area.^{[1]
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- You can also to a local nursery owner for species suggestions.
- Tree roots always grow best in their native soil.^{[2]
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  Research source} You shouldn't need to amend or fertilize the soil as long as the species is native and climate-appropriate.^{[3]
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2
Plant most tree species in the fall or early spring. Cool weather is the best time for planting since the trees are dormant during that time. Planting a tree in late spring or summer, when the roots are actively growing, puts too much stress on the tree and it may not survive.^{[4]
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- Early fall is best for container trees and balled and burlapped (B&B) trees.^{[5]
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- Spring is best for bare root trees (trees that have been stored without any soil around their roots).^{[6]
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- Always plant before the first freeze (or after the last freeze).
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3
Pick an open, flat area away from buildings, powerlines, and utilities. Make sure there's plenty of room for the tree to grow to maturity. In the United States, you can call 811 before you dig. Someone will come out to mark your underground utility lines for free (or walk you through it over the phone) so you can avoid planting too close to them.^{[7]
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- Most urban communities have zoning laws about trees and digging holes. To avoid fines, check local laws before you plant. If you live outside the city limits, you can plant without restrictions.
4
Make sure your chosen location gets at least 6 hours of sunlight daily. Light needs vary depending on the tree species, so you’ll want to check your specs. That said, most trees require full sun to thrive.^{[8]
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Research source} At a bare minimum, full sun amounts to 6 hours of uninterrupted sunlight per day.

Part 2

Part 2 of 3:

Planting

1
Water the soil on planting day before you dig the hole. Give the planting location a good hose down to moisten the soil and make it easier to turn. Moist soil is also more hospitable and minimizes root stress for a newly transplanted tree.^{[9]
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2
Dig a hole 2-3 times the diameter of the root ball. You’ll be using the original soil to fill in the hole around the root ball, so shovel the excavated soil right next to the hole. For easy backfilling, it can help to lay down a tarp and shovel the soil on top of it.^{[10]
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- A regular shovel will work fine since you’ve already moistened the soil.
- You don’t need to literally measure the root ball (unless you want to). Just make sure the width of the hole can easily accommodate the roots.
3
Dig the hole to the same depth as the root ball. Locate the first lateral roots, which are the long offshoots near the top of the root ball. For proper placement, the lateral roots need to be 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 cm) under the soil’s surface after planting. The start of the tree trunk should be about level with the ground.^{[11]
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- If you plant too deep, the roots will struggle to get oxygen and eventually smother. Water may also pool around the base of the tree, causing the bark to deteriorate, which eventually kills the tree.^{[12]
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4
Nestle the root ball into the prepared hole. Any loose soil inside the hole needs to be moved to the side so the root ball is resting on solid ground. After the root ball is in position, make sure the root flare (the spot where the tree trunk meets the root ball) is just visible above the soil line.^{[13]
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- If the roots are wrapped in burlap, cut the burlap off once the tree is properly positioned in the hole.^{[14]
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Fill in the planting hole with the original soil and tamp lightly. Loosen and break up any dirt clods before backfilling the hole. Then, fill in the space around the root ball and press down gently.^{[15]
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- Avoid tamping down the soil too hard, since that compacts the soil and reduces available oxygen for the roots.
- It's important to backfill with the original soil. Using soil amendments around the root ball can cause problems, like root rot.
6
Water deeply at the base of the tree until the soil is saturated. Pour the water slowly so you don’t disturb or compact the soil around the root ball. Plenty of available moisture will help the soil settle around the roots so the tree can establish itself in its new environment. ^{[16]
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Part 3

Part 3 of 3:

Care and Maintenance

1
Add a 3–4 in (7.6–10.2 cm) layer of organic wood mulch around the tree. You don’t have to mulch immediately after planting, but try to do it fairly soon to reap the protective benefits. Don’t pile mulch up around the tree trunk—leave a 2–4 in (5.1–10.2 cm) space between the trunk and the mulch.^{[17]
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- If you're planting in the fall, mulch before the first freeze. If you're planting in the spring, mulch before summer.
- Organic wood mulch helps the soil retain moisture and regulate temperature. It also prevents weeds from sprouting up and stealing the tree's nutrients.
2
Keep the soil consistently moist for the first 2 years. Watering your tree properly helps the roots get established and is crucial to ensure the tree’s survival. How often you water depends on your climate, so monitor the soil and water as often as needed (even in the winter).^{[18]
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- If you can't monitor the soil moisture closely, consider installing a drip irrigation system. The system discharges small quantities of water on a regular basis directly to the root zone to keep the tree hydrated.
- If the ground freezes in winter, you don't need to water during that time.
- Give enough water to the plant to stay healthy but not too much water that it's always soggy.
3
Water less frequently once the tree is established. After about 2 years, you can ease up on the watering. The specific amount of water needed still depends on your climate, but in general, water an established tree deeply every 3-5 days during the growing season (late spring through early fall). In the dormant season (late fall through early spring), water once a month.^{[19]
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4
Remove damaged or diseased branches every few months. No pruning is needed at the time of planting, but be sure to check on the tree every 2-3 months once its in the ground. Use sharp pruning shears to remove any damaged or diseased areas. Always leave the lower limbs intact, if possible.^{[20]
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- It's important to limit pruning for the first 2 years until the tree is established so you don't stunt the growth.
- Once the tree is established, prune the tree according to the the needs of the species. Be sure to research thoroughly so you know when and how much to prune!
- Periodically, you can add an all-purpose fertilizer depending on the soil.

Community Q&A

Question

Why is it not advisable to cover the root flare?

wikiHow Staff Editor
Staff Answer
This answer was written by one of our trained team of researchers who validated it for accuracy and comprehensiveness.

wikiHow Staff Editor

Staff Answer

Planting a tree too deep in the ground will kill it. Eventually, the tree will drown.
Question

Will roots grow through burlap?

Community Answer

They can over time given the strength of roots, but it is not advisable because it will disrupt the flow of oxygen and water drainage.
Question

We have had a lot of rain recently, and the hole I dug has water in it. Do I need to wait for it to dry out before I plant my tree?

Community Answer

Try draining it beforehand. You could drown the roots before they get a chance to grow.