How to Maintain Your Cowboy Boots

Co-authored by Marc Sigal

Last Updated: June 29, 2021 Approved

Cowboy boots are designed to last for years and endure rough conditions, but that doesn’t mean that they don’t benefit from regular cleaning and polishing. If you wear your boots for fashion purposes, you can get away with occasional cleaning. But if you wear them for utilitarian work and really get them dirty, you should clean them whenever they appear dusty or scuffed. In addition to cleaning and polishing the boots to make them brighter and looking like new, you should also condition your boots to restore and hydrate the leather.

Method 1

Method 1 of 4:

Waterproofing New Boots

1
Spray new boots with silicone polymer spray. When you purchase your boots, you need to protect them against damage from the elements. Lay out the boots on newspaper in a well-ventilated area, hold the silicone polymer spray about a foot (30.48 cm) from the boots and spray evenly.
- You can find silicone polymer spray at department stores and some shoe stores.
- This type of spray is generally safe on all leather, including suede, but check the packaging to make sure.
2
Apply another coat after 30 minutes. After spraying both boots, let the boots dry for about 30 minutes. Then apply another coat for extra protection and let it dry for 30 more minutes. After the second coat dries, the boots will be ready to wear.

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3
Apply waterproofing spray every few months. It’s important to apply waterproofing spray consistently, especially if you're in a wet climate. If you wear your boots in a dry climate or mostly indoors, apply spray to clean boots every few months, otherwise, apply the spray every month or so to protect your boots.

Method 2

Method 2 of 4:

Cleaning Your Boots

1
Brush off mud or dirt. If your boots are very dirty and have caked up mud or dirt on them, it’s a good idea to remove this debris before cleaning the boots with soap. Use a soft-bristled boot brush to target problem areas and remove dirt. You can even use a plastic spoon if you're trying to remove thick layers of hardened dirt.^{[1]
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Expert Source

Marc Sigal
Shoe Care Specialist
Expert Interview. 15 January 2020.}
2
Use a damp sponge to remove dust. To remove any thin layers of dirt or dust on your cowboy boots, dampen a sponge and use it to wipe the entire surface of the boot, focusing on any problem areas.
- If your boots are made of suede, they should not be exposed to water of any kind. Instead of using a damp sponge to clean, use a nylon brush to target dirt and dust.
3
Use soap and water. If your boots don’t look completely clean after using a damp sponge, get the sponge completely wet and use gentle soap or soap designed for leather to wipe down the boot and develop a lather. Then gently rub over dirty areas with the sponge. Once the dirt is removed, use a damp cloth to wipe off the suds.
4
Scrub seams with a toothbrush. If the boot is relatively clean but there is still some dirt in the nooks and crannies or around the seams of the boot, use a damp toothbrush to gently scrub these areas.
5
Let the boots dry. Use a clean cloth to wipe the boots after you have finished cleaning them. Then set the boots aside and let them sit for about thirty minutes until they are dry to the touch.

Method 3

Method 3 of 4:

Conditioning Your Boots

1
Spot test with a leather conditioner. Buy a lanolin-based leather conditioner and spot test it on an inconspicuous place of your boot by dabbing it on with a cloth and rubbing it in. Leave it on the boot for a couple hours and then check. If the spot on your boot is only slightly darker, the conditioner is okay to use. If the spot is markedly darker or has turned the patch a different color, purchase and spot test a different leather conditioner.^{[2]
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Expert Source

Marc Sigal
Shoe Care Specialist
Expert Interview. 15 January 2020.}
- You should condition your boots at least every six months or when you notice that the leather is creasing, cracking or discoloring, as this can indicate that it is dry and needs conditioning.
2
Apply a thin layer of leather conditioner to the boot. Add a small dollop of leather conditioner to a white terrycloth or chamois towel and gently rub the conditioner onto the surface of the boot. Apply the conditioner to the entire boot in a thin layer, and repeat on the other boot. Don’t use too much conditioner, as too much will clog the pores of the leather.^{[3]
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Expert Source

Marc Sigal
Shoe Care Specialist
Expert Interview. 15 January 2020.}
- Leather conditioner adds moisture to leather, which often becomes dry over time especially if you are living in a dry or desert climate. It also helps to repair water damage, as water often saps moisture from the boot when it dries.
- It’s normal for the boots to appear a little darker after adding conditioner but they should lighten up after a few days.
- Don't use conditioner on suede, naked or nude finish leather, patent leather or microsuede. If you have exotic leather boots, such as alligator or snakeskin, use a conditioner formulated specifically for exotic leather.
3
Wipe the conditioner away after 12-24 hours. Let the boots sit for 12-24 hours and use a clean cloth to wipe away any excess conditioner. If your boots still seem dry, you can repeat the process by adding another thin layer of conditioner to your boots.
4
Use oil on oil impregnated boots. If you have oil-impregnated boots, you may want to use a layer of oil after conditioning your boots. Add mink oil, specialized leather oil, mineral oil or neatsfoot oil to a clean cloth and apply it in the same way as you did with the conditioner. After 12-24 hours, wipe the oil off your boots.
- While the leather of oil-impregnated boots is infused with extra oil, the oil can still dry up or get removed by water damage over time. Replenishing this oil every 6 months or so ensures that your boots stay healthy and don’t get too dry.

Method 4

Method 4 of 4:

Polishing Your Boots

1
Find a cream polish the same color as your boots. There are several types of polishes, but cream polishes work best to moisturize and add shine to your boots. Find a leather cream polish in the same color as your boot or a neutral polish that isn’t colored.
- Only cowboy boots with a finish should be polished. Don’t polish suede, naked or nude finished leather, patent or microsuede leather.
- The advantage of using a colored polish is that it can restore color to faded boots.
2
Add a thin layer of polish to your boots. Just like with the conditioner, add a dollop of polish to a clean white cloth and rub it into your boots. Add another thin layer if you want more shine.^{[4]
X
Expert Source

Marc Sigal
Shoe Care Specialist
Expert Interview. 15 January 2020.}
3
Clean off the polish. Follow the directions on the package to either wipe away excess polish or let it set into the boot. Don’t wear the boots until they're dry to the touch.^{[5]
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Research source}

Expert Q&A

Question

Can you waterproof cowboy boots?

Marc Sigal
Shoe Care Specialist
Marc Sigal is the Founder of ButlerBox, a dry cleaning and shoe care service based in Los Angeles, California. ButlerBox places custom-designed, wrinkle-resistant lockers in luxury apartment buildings, class A office buildings, shopping centers, and other convenient locations so you can pick up and drop off items 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Marc has a BA in Global and International Studies from the University of California, Santa Barbara.

Marc Sigal

Shoe Care Specialist

Expert Answer

Sure. There are oil waterproofing sprays out there that you can purchase. You can also use a natural oil to protect your boots from water. It's still probably a good idea to keep your boots dry whenever possible, though.
Question

How do you moisturize leather boots?

Marc Sigal
Shoe Care Specialist
Marc Sigal is the Founder of ButlerBox, a dry cleaning and shoe care service based in Los Angeles, California. ButlerBox places custom-designed, wrinkle-resistant lockers in luxury apartment buildings, class A office buildings, shopping centers, and other convenient locations so you can pick up and drop off items 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Marc has a BA in Global and International Studies from the University of California, Santa Barbara.

Marc Sigal

Shoe Care Specialist

Expert Answer

Use a white terrycloth or chamois towel to gently rub a dollop of leather conditioner into the boots. Apply a very thin layer so you don't clog the pores of the boots.
Question

How do I spot-clean my oil resistant cowboy boots?

Community Answer

Use a soft bristled boot brush to scrub away dirt. Use a dampened towel to target more ingrained dirt or dust.