How to Build an Outdoor Storage Bench

Co-authored by Archie Guerrero and Hunter Rising

Last Updated: January 26, 2023 References

Don’t you wish there was a convenient way to keep all of your outdoor supplies organized and safe? Well if you want a functional piece of furniture that also adds more outdoor seating, a storage bench will work perfectly in your yard. Storage benches are pretty basic to build and only require a few tools, so it should only take you about a day to finish your project. We’ll walk you through each step to make a durable storage bench so you’re able to keep your items safe and stowed away!

Part 1

Part 1 of 3:

Cutting Your Lumber

1
Buy pressure-treated wood made for exterior use. Pressure-treated lumber is more condensed, so won’t rot or absorb moisture as easily as untreated wood. Choose woods like cedar, treated pine, and treated poplar to make your bench the most durable.^{[1]
X
Research source} Visit your local home improvement store or lumberyard to buy:
- 1 in × 6 in (2.5 cm × 15.2 cm) boards that are 6 ft (1.8 m) long (7)
- 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) board that is 8 ft (2.4 m) long (1)
- 1 in × 2 in (2.5 cm × 5.1 cm) board that is 8 ft (2.4 m) long (1)
- 1 in × 3 in (2.5 cm × 7.6 cm) board that is 8 ft (2.4 m) long (1)^{[2]
  X
  Research source}
2
Trim frames from 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards with a circular saw. Put on safety glasses whenever you work with power tools to keep your eyes protected. Measure out 6 pieces that are each 15 ³⁄₄ inches (40 cm) long with a measuring tape. Label the boards “Frame” with a pencil so you know what to use them for later.^{[3]
X
Research source}
- Always double-check your measurements before making your cut so you don’t accidentally cut them too long or short.
- You can seriously injure yourself with a circular saw, so work carefully and ask for help if you don’t know how to work one properly.
Advertisement
3
Cut the 1 in × 6 in (2.5 cm × 15.2 cm) boards for the side panels. Measure and mark 9 lengths of board so they’re 35 ³⁄₄ in (91 cm) long. Carefully cut the pieces out with your saw and label them with “Front/Back Panel” before setting them aside. Then, measure and cut an additional 10 pieces that are each 15 ³⁄₄ in (40 cm). Write “Side Panel” on each board.^{[4]
X
Research source}
- The panels wrap around the sides and form the lid of your bench so it has a uniform appearance.
4
Saw the cleats and floor slats from your 1 in × 2 in (2.5 cm × 5.1 cm) boards. Measure out 2 lengths of board that are 34 ³⁄₄ in (88 cm) long and mark them. Make straight cuts through each of your marks using your circular saw. Label the pieces “Cleats” and set them aside. Then, trim 2 more lengths that are 12 ³⁄₄ in (32 cm) and label them “Slats.”^{[5]
X
Research source}
- The cleats and floor slats support the weight of the items you’re storing so they’re off the ground.
5
Cut the 1 in × 3 in (2.5 cm × 7.6 cm) boards down for the lid supports. Use your measuring tape and a pencil to mark 2 lengths of board that are each 15 ¹⁄₂ in (39 cm) long. Trim along your marks to cut the pieces down to size. Write “Lid support” on each piece so you don’t forget where it goes.^{[6]
X
Research source}
- The lid supports hold the boards together and prevent the lid from warping.
6
Apply an end-cut sealer to any of the sawn ends of your lumber. Dip a paintbrush into a container of end-cut sealer to wet the bristles. Brush a thin layer of the sealer onto any rough edges that you just cut. Let the end-cut sealer dry completely for about 1–3 hours before working with your wood again.^{[7]
X
Research source}
- You can buy end-cut sealer from your local hardware store.
- If you leave the rough edges untreated, they could split or crack as they dry out.

Part 2

Part 2 of 3:

Creating the Bench

1
Construct U-shaped frames using your 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) pieces. Place 3 of your frame pieces on your work surface so they’re standing on their long narrow ends. Place one of the boards horizontally and align the other 2 vertically so they’re flush with the ends of the first board. Put 2 screws that are 2 ¹⁄₂ in (6.4 cm) long through the face of the horizontal board on each end so they go into the vertical boards. Repeat the process with your other frame pieces to make the second frame.^{[8]
X
Research source}
- The horizontal board becomes the top of your bench and the open ends of the vertical boards are feet that keep your bench elevated from the ground.
2
Attach the side panels to the faces of the frames. Lay the first side panel board flat on the long narrow edges of the vertical supports so the ends are flush with the frame. Position the board so it extends past the top of the frame by ³⁄₄ inch (1.9 cm). Secure the panel to the frame using 2 screws that are 1 ¹⁄₄ in (3.2 cm) long at each end. Position the next 2 side panels directly below the first one and secure them the same way. Attach 3 more side panels to the second frame piece.^{[9]
X
Research source}
- The bottoms of the frames are still visible in the final build.
3
Connect the front and back panels to the sides of your end frames. Align the first front panel so it covers the end of the top side panel and is flush with the top. Secure the panel to the frame using 2 screws that are 1 ¹⁄₄ in (3.2 cm) long. Line up the other end of the panel with the top of the other frame piece and attach it the same way. Add 2 more panel pieces to the front and attach them the same way. Flip the bench over to the back and attach 3 more of the panels.^{[10]
X
Research source}
- If any of your panels have knots or deformations, hide them on the inside of the bench so they aren’t exposed.
4
Screw the cleats flush with the bottoms of the bench’s side panels. Turn your bench over so it lies on the front or back. Position your 34 ³⁄₄ in (88 cm) cleat pieces on the frame pieces inside the bench so it lines up with bottoms of the side panels. Secure 2 screws that are 1 ¹⁄₄ in (3.2 cm) long through the cleat and into the frame. Flip your bench over and attach the other cleat to the other side.^{[11]
X
Research source}
- Avoid putting the cleats flush with the bottoms of the frames, or else they’ll be visible from the outside.
5
Screw the floor slats and remaining end panels to the tops of the cleats. Turn your bench over so it’s right-side up. Position the 12 ³⁄₄ in (32 cm) pieces on top of the cleats so they’re between the frame pieces. Attach 2 screws that are 1 ¹⁄₄ in (3.2 cm) long through each end of the cleats so they stay in place. Lay your 4 leftover end panels on top of the cleats and space them evenly apart. Use 2 screws per end to attach them to the cleats.^{[12]
X
Research source}
- Leave gaps between your floor slats so water from rain or a hose can drain out without pooling inside of your bench.
6
Staple hardware cloth to the cleats to keep animals out. Hardware cloth is a type of wire fencing that adds an additional layer of security to your bench. Cut the hardware cloth with tin snips so it fits inside of your bench. Lay the hardware cloth flat on the slats and use a staple gun to secure it to your cleats and slats.^{[13]
X
Research source}
- You can buy hardware cloth from your local home improvement store.
7
Construct the lid with the leftover boards and supports. Lay your 1 in × 3 in (2.5 cm × 7.6 cm) lid supports on top of your frame pieces so they’re flush with the tops of the panels. Align your 3 remaining panel pieces on top of your bench so they’re flush with the sides, leaving even gaps between them. Secure 2 of your 1 ¹⁄₄ in (3.2 cm) screws through the face of each lid panel and into the support beneath it. Then, secure the other ends of the panels to the second support.^{[14]
X
Research source}
- Be careful not to screw your lid into the frame pieces, or else you won’t be able to open your bench.
8
Screw hinges into the bottom side of the lid and back of the bench. Position the hinges about a third of the way in from the ends of your lid so they evenly support its weight. Screw the sides of the hinges that swing open onto the bottom of the lid. Set the lid on top of your bench so all the edges are flush. Then secure the other halves of the hinges to the back of the bench so it’s on the outside.^{[15]
X
Research source}
9
Install eye hooks and chains inside the box and lid. Screw an eye hook on the inside front corners of the end panels. Secure 2 more eye hooks onto the tops of the battens that are closest to the short ends of the bench. Open the lid on your bench so it’s pointing straight up. Secure a thin chain tightly between the corner eye hook and the one that’s on the batten on each side.^{[16]
X
Research source}
- This takes some stress off of the hinges when you open the bench, but it doesn’t prevent the lid from falling down.
- You can also use lid stays, which are pneumatic devices that prevent the lid from dropping down suddenly. Just screw the bottom to the side of the bench and the top to the batten.

Part 3

Part 3 of 3:

Finishing and Decorating

1
Let the wood dry before adding any finishes. Pressure-treated wood is slightly wet so it won’t accept stain or paint right away. It may take a few weeks or even months for your wood to completely dry. When the wood feels dry to the touch, flick drops of water onto it. If the wood absorbs the water, then it’s dry enough to finish. If the water beads on the surface, then keep waiting.
- If you want to start painting or finishing sooner, purchase wood that’s kiln-dried after the treatment.
2
Paint or stain your bench if you want to make it a different color. Use a finish that’s made for exterior use so it handles the elements better. Apply your finish when you have a few clear and sunny days so you don’t have to worry about rain. If you’re painting, apply a coat of primer and let it dry before putting on 1–2 layers of your paint. For stain, work from the top to the bottom to apply the color evenly.
- You don’t need to paint or stain the inside of your bench.
3
Put cushions and pillows on your bench for a comfortable new seat. While it’s okay to sit directly on the lid slats, put down a few extra outdoor cushions so it’s softer. If your bench is up against a wall, lean some pillows against it to use for a backrest. Just be sure to put the cushions and pillows away once you’re done using them.^{[17]
X
Research source}
- You can buy cushions for outdoor furniture online or from home improvement stores.
4
Add casters to the feet if you want to move the bench easier. Get a set of 4 casters and coupling nuts from your local hardware store. Use your drill to make holes that are the same diameter as the coupling nuts through the ends of the feet. Drive the coupling nuts into the holes with a mallet and screw the castors into them. That way, you can roll the bench around when you need to.^{[18]
X
Research source}
- Lock the casters whenever you’re done moving your bench so it doesn’t roll anywhere on its own.
- Install handles on the sides of the bench so it’s easier to pull around.

Warnings

Always use caution when you’re working with power tools so you don’t injure yourself. Wear safety glasses to protect yourself.

⧼thumbs_response⧽
Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0