How to Raise Chicks

Co-authored by Melissa Nelson, DVM, PhD

Last Updated: November 25, 2022 References Approved

Raising baby chicks is an extremely rewarding experience, as you watch them grow from chirping balls of fluff to egg-bearing, full-feathered hens. Chickens are great pets, but they can also be a handful. Here are things to consider before starting your own flock, and the correct methods and procedures for raising baby chicks with love and care.

Method 1

Method 1 of 4:

Things to Consider Before Buying Your Chicks

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Make sure you have the resources to raise chickens. Raising baby chickens is a rewarding experience, but it is not something you should jump into too quickly. Before you raise baby chickens, think long and hard about why you want to keep chickens and whether you have the time, money and space to provide for them.^{[1]
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- In terms of expense, keeping chickens is relatively cheap compared to other animals.^{[2]
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  Research source} However, chicken feed is a necessary and ongoing expense, and vets' bills can add up if one or more of your chickens falls ill. You may also need to invest in a brooder and/or a coop if you are raising chickens for the first time.
- Chickens are not terribly time-consuming, but you will need to feed and water them daily, keep their coop clean (which involves shoveling manure) and collect their eggs once or twice daily. If you are planning on going away for more than a couple of days, you will need to seek out a chicken-sitter, which can be tricky. If you let eggs accumulate in the nest boxes, the hens may become broody, which is where they will peck or cluck at you if you attempt to collect the eggs. To discourage this, look into a broody box.
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Look into the legality of keeping chickens in your area.^{[3]
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Research source} Before purchasing birds or planning for a coop, it is important to check local regulations and homeowner association rules. Many municipalities ban roosters (due to the noise they make) or place a limit on the number of hens a household can keep.
- Some communities also require permits, signed agreements from neighbors, or an appearance before the zoning board, while others have ordinances that restrict the size and placement of outbuildings.
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Plan to keep at least 3 to 6 birds. Chickens are very sociable creatures,^{[4]
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Research source} so you should plan on keeping at least three to six birds for company. Having an extra one or two is also not a bad idea should any of your chickens fall victim to predators or disease.
- In addition, hens typically lay 5-6 eggs a week, so four birds will provide you with almost two dozen eggs per week.^{[5]
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  Research source} The more chickens, the more eggs!
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Choose your breeds. The breed of chickens you choose to raise should be based on qualities such as temperament, egg-laying ability, size and color of the eggs, climate suitability, aesthetic value, and meat quality, depending on your preferences.
- For dependable egg production, choose "layer" breeds, such as Black Australorps, that were bred to lay reliably. Leghorns, also, produce about 325 eggs a year.^{[6]
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- Dual-purpose breeds (which provide eggs and meat), such as Buff Orpingtons and Laced Wyandottes, and Plymouth rocks, are bigger than layers but have better egg production than "broilers" (Cornish Cross) or (White Rock Cross), which are breeds used primarily for meat.
- Research your breeds on Google. For starters, I would lean towards Americaunas, Orpingtons, Silkies, Brahmas and Austalrops. I would stay away from "butcher breeds" which are more aggressive and have a shorter life span.
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Find out where to source baby chickens. You can find day-old baby chickens at your local farm store in springtime, or order them from a mail-order catalog. Be aware that mail orders usually have a minimum order policy, requiring a shipment of at least 25 chicks. This is because larger numbers of chicks are easier to keep warm in transit, resulting in fewer losses. However, open the box in front of the mail carrier to account for any losses.^{[5]
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- Place your order in spring. You don't want to be ordering in the middle of autumn or winter. Colder weather can hold you back and be much harder to care for your chickens. If you order at the start of spring it'll be easier for you and the chicks. Besides, most chicks are only available to order in spring.
- If you only want three or four chicks to start off, consider combining your order with the orders of other local chicken breeders or farmers to overcome the minimum shipment requirement. Alternatively, you can ask a farm-supply store if they will include your order in their own.^{[5]
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- If possible, specify that you want all females when you place your order. Roosters can be loud and aggressive and are not recommended for first-timers. The hens will also lay better without roosters around.^{[5]
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Think about the space and equipment you will need in advance. Initially, the chickens will need a brooder, which is a small enclosure like a cardboard box or rabbit cage, which can be kept indoors or in a garage. Then, once they move outside, they will need a chicken coop; a safe place where they can lay their eggs and be safe from predators. In the chick stage, the chicks might do something called feather picking. This is where the chicks pick at another chick new feathers, the shafts of which are filled with blood. The chicks are attracted to the color red, and will therefore pick all the feathers, resulting in the crippling or death of the chick. To discourage, buy a brooder light that is red. The blood will look less interesting because everything will be red.^{[7]
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- Once grown, chickens don't necessarily need a whole farmyard to run around in, in fact, city and suburban chickens are becoming increasingly popular amongst those who have even small-sized yards. However, you will need some semblance of a yard, preferably with grass for the chickens to peck around in.

Method 2

Method 2 of 4:

Caring for Baby Chickens Less Than Two Months Old

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Prepare a chicken brooder and a lamp. The chicks' first home is called a "brooder". For one-time or once-in-a-while use, a cardboard box or plastic storage box works just fine. A cage suitable for a rabbit or guinea pig is another good option and is also easy to clean. Brooders can also be purchased in farm supply stores or you can build your own.^{[8]
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- The brooder should be placed indoors or in a garage - somewhere that is free from drafts.^{[9]
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  Research source} Keeping the chicks warm is essential.
- The size of the brooder is not overly important, as long as the chicks are not overcrowded and there is enough space for a feeder and water. The walls also need to be high enough to prevent them from hopping out once they get a bit bigger.
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Use the correct flooring. The floor of the brooder should be covered in a layer of clean litter, made from pine shavings or something similar. A newspaper can also be used, but it is not the best option as it is slippery and the printer ink can rub off on the chicks. This litter should be changed every couple of days and should never be allowed to remain damp.Never use cedar shaving! This is toxic for their little lungs and causes brooder pneumonia which is fatal. I recommend pine shavings that are doubled screened for dust to prevent allergies.^{[10]
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- Cleanliness is very important at this stage of the chicks' development as baby chicks are prone to a number of diseases, most of which can be avoided with proper sanitation.
3
Monitor the temperature carefully. A lamp should be placed in the brooder to keep the baby chicks warm. Use a light bulb with a reflector, which can be purchased in any hardware store. A regular 100-watt bulb will also work, though some people use an actual heat lamp. Place a thermometer in the brooder so you can monitor the temperature exactly. The temperature should be 90–100 °F (32–38 °C) for the first week or so, then can be reduced by 5 degrees each week thereafter, until the chicks have developed their feathers around 5-8 weeks old.^{[11]
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- Alternatively, you can tell if the brooder is warm enough by how the chicks behave. If they are panting and/or huddling in corners farthest from the light, they are too hot. If they huddle together in a ball under the light, they are too cold.
- You can adjust the temperature by altering the distance of the light or changing the wattage of the light bulb until it's just right.
4
Make sure they have food and water. Chicks start out eating a special food called "crumbles", available at farm supply or pet stores. It is specially formulated for their dietary needs and comes in both medicated and non-medicated versions. If you choose the non-medicated versions, be particularly aware of cleanliness. This feed is a complete food and no other food will be necessary. You will also need to ensure that your chicks always have fresh, clean water as it is imperative that the chicks stay hydrated. You should change the water once or twice a day to prevent it from becoming contaminated.
- Special waterers are available at farm supply stores, they are inexpensive, light-weight and can't be overturned by the chicks. Any shallow bowl will also work, but you need to watch that it remains upright and free of poop.
- Even baby chicks will naturally scratch at their food, so a feeder that keeps all of the food in one place is helpful. Special feeders made of galvanized steel are available in farm supply stores, though any shallow bowl will do.
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Share play time with them. Baby chicks are playful and curious creatures. It is important that you spend time with them, handling them frequently and talking to them until they learn to love and trust you.You can cuddle and even watch TV with them. They love to jump and play. After a week or two, the baby chicks can be brought outside to explore for short periods of time, provided the weather is warm. Just watch out for predators - that includes the cat!
- Although the baby chicks get all the sustenance they need from their feed, it can be fun to feed them treats. After the first week or two, you can give them a worm or a bug or two from your garden to play with and eat. However, greens are not recommended just yet, as they can cause diarrhea-like symptoms which can be dangerous to small chicks.You should also wipe the chicks' butts, because their poop can become crusty and cause infection, use a napkin with lukewarm water on it.
- Once the baby chicks are about a month old, you can place a low perch in the brooder. The chicks will jump on it and may even begin to sleep there. Just don't put the perch directly under the light as it will be too hot.
- Make sure to wash your hands with warm water and soap after touching the chicks.
- Watch children carefully around chicks to make sure that they don't hurt them. Chicks can be very fragile.

Method 3

Method 3 of 4:

Caring for Chickens Older Than Two Months

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Move your chicks to an outdoor coop. Once the chicks are about two months old you can move them to an outdoor coop, provided it's not the middle of winter. Coops can be purchased from a farm supply store, or you can build your own. The coop provides shelter for chickens, protecting them from drafts and predators. It keeps them warm in winter and cool in summer. There are several important considerations when buying or building a coop:^{[12]
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- Run space: All coops should have enough space for chickens to forage and get some fresh air. In terms of size, a chicken coop with a footprint of 4x8 feet should comfortably house 3 to 5 chickens.
- Elevated roost: Though open-air roosting coops are an option, you should really provide your chickens with an elevated and enclosed roosting space, if possible. As with most birds, chickens have a natural roosting instinct and are partial to roosting in high areas. The roosting area should also include a roosting perch where the chickens can sleep. A perch should be 2 inches (5.1 cm) thick and 8–10 inches (20–25 cm) long for each chicken.
- Nesting boxes: All coops should have nesting boxes in their roosting area. These are just little 12”x12”x12” spaces for hens to lay their eggs. One box will do for every two chickens, as they don't mind sharing. You can line the nesting boxes with straw or wood shavings.
- Cleanliness: You should clean your chicken coop once every 4 months, and change the straw and floor shavings every week and a half.
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Protect them from predators. A good chicken coop should protect your chickens from predators. In fact, security should be the number one priority when choosing a chicken coop, as chickens are helpless at the hands (or claws and paws) of predators such as weasels, minks, cats, raccoons, dogs, and even hawks. Make sure your chicken coop is wrapped in 360 degrees of wire cage, with holes no larger than 1 inch (2.5 cm). Regularly check to make sure there are no cracks or loose boards where predators could slip inside.^{[13]
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- Make sure that the wire goes down about 6 inches (150 mm) under the coop so that predators cannot dig up into the coop.
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Change their food and give them treats. Once your chickens reach the two-month mark, you can swap their feed from "crumbles" to "laying mash", which is also available at the farm supply store.^{[14]
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Research source} Along with the mash, your older chickens will also appreciate any tasty leftovers from the kitchen and garden weeds (as long as they're free of pesticides).
- You should also place a bowl of gritty sand in the chicken coop. The chickens need this sand to grind up and digest their food, as they have no teeth.^{[5]
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- You can also give them a crushed oyster shell supplement from your local farm supply store to provide extra calcium for strong eggshells.^{[5]
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- Leave the chicken feed in a durable chicken feeder and make sure to clean it regularly. You should also check the feed itself every other day to may sure it isn't mouldy or wet.
- Remember to give the chickens access to plenty of fresh, clean water. Large waterers can be purchased which don't need to be filled as often and heated waterers can be used in winter to prevent the water from freezing.
4
Interact with them. Chickens appreciate human interaction, so make sure to talk to them and call them by their names. Tame chickens can also be picked up and rubbed, and if they're shy you can encourage them with a handful of grain. Some chickens will greet you at your door or will answer or come running when you call. The friendliness of your chickens will depend somewhat on the breed, but also on the level of attention you give them.
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Know when to expect eggs. Young hens (known as pullets) will begin to lay eggs between 20 and 24 weeks of age and they will lay approximately 5-6 eggs a week.^{[15]
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- Hens will lay through the spring and summer months and into the fall, as long as they have 12 to 14 hours of daylight. In the fall, their egg production will dwindle, before increasing again the following spring. You can expect to collect eggs daily, or even twice a day. The larger the chicken, the larger your eggs will be.
- Although hens can lay as long as they live (8 to 10 years isn't uncommon), they start producing fewer eggs after 3 to 5 years.

Method 4

Method 4 of 4:

Why You Should Raise Chickens

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They lay fresh eggs. The major perk of raising chickens is that you will have a flock of egg-laying hens in under a year. The eggs your hens produce will be fresher and tastier than anything you can buy at the supermarket. Plus you can control exactly what goes into them through what you feed your hens. Eggshells can be white, brown or blue-green depending on the breed of chicken.^{[16]
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They provide compost. Chickens are veritable compost factories, they will turn their feed, plants, insects and almost any kitchen scraps into a nutrient-rich garden additive through their poop.^{[17]
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They provide insect control and landscaping services. Chickens will eat almost any insect unlucky enough to cross their paths, along with mice, snakes and minnows if they get the chance. They also love pecking at fresh grass and plant shoots and will happily weed your garden for you.^{[18]
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They're fun to watch. From adorable, chirping chicks to squawking, squabbling adolescents, to beautiful, full-feathered birds, chickens are a joy to watch. They are entertaining and lovable, each with their own distinct personality. They are also very handsome birds, some breeds with plumage to rival even their most exotic, tropical cousins.^{[19]
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They provide food. Chickens don't just provide eggs, they also provide chicken (who'd have thought it?). Hens will stop laying eggs after 3-5 years and at that point you can decide whether to keep the older hens on as pets, or turn them into stew. It may sound harsh, but that's the way of the farmyard. If you unexpectedly raise a rooster instead of a hen, you can eat it after 5-6 months.
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They make great pets. Chickens are very sociable creatures and if you raise them from chicks (or hatch them yourself) they will form a bond with you and be very loyal pets. Tame chickens will sit in your lap, feed from your hand, cluck at you in greeting and might even come when they're called.^{[20]
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Expert Q&A

Question

What hormone can be given to chicken to make them lay more eggs and to start laying before 20 weeks?

Melissa Nelson, DVM, PhD
Veterinarian
Dr. Nelson is a Veterinarian who specializes in Companion and Large Animal Medicine in Minnesota, where she has over 18 years of experience as a veterinarian in a rural clinic. She received her Doctor of Veterinary Medicine from the University of Minnesota in 1998.

Melissa Nelson, DVM, PhD

Veterinarian

Expert Answer

None that is legal or safe for the chicken.

Warnings

Baby chicks should never be allowed around an established flock until they are at an appropriate age, such as when they start clucking instead of peeping, or when they have combs. Otherwise, you will lose your chicks when the other girls try to establish the pecking order.

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Chicks require enough thermal heat in their brooder; otherwise, they will freeze. An appropriate heat lamp will replace the heat that an absent mother hen cannot.

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