How to Apply Polyurethane

Co-authored by Sam Hubbard

Last Updated: May 10, 2022 Approved

Polyurethane is a protective finish applied to wood to guard against it wear and other damage. Whether it is oil-based or water-based, it comes in a variety of finishes, from glossy to matte. Application is a straightforward practice of sanding the surface area, applying a coat of poly, and repeating. However, depending on the shape of the surface area, you will have to decide between brushing it on or using a cloth to wipe it on.

Part 1

Part 1 of 4:

Setting Up Your Workspace

1
Clean your workspace. Remove as much dirt and dust as possible from the area. Vacuum, mop, and/or wipe every surface clean. Reduce the number of particles that might end up sticking to your coats of polyurethane.
- Dust and other particles that dry in the polyurethane will result in an uneven surface.^{[1]
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2
Ventilate the room. Create a cross-breeze to get rid of the polyurethane’s fumes while you work. Open a window and install an exhaust fan facing outward. Then, if possible, open a window on the opposite side of the room.
- Never place a fan in your immediate work area, since this may lead to dust being blown onto your wood as you coat it.
- Purchase a respirator with an organic cartridge if you are unable to improve the room’s ventilation and/or if you are sensitive to fumes.
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3
Create a work surface. If the wood to be treated can be transported, lay out a protective covering for it to rest on while you work. Use a tarp, dropcloth, cardboard, or similar material. Whichever you use, make sure that it covers a few feet beyond the wood itself on all sides. Protect the surface underneath and make clean-up a cinch.^{[2]
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- Also make sure the surrounding area is clear of any objects that you want to keep clean, just in case you make a bigger mess than you mean to.

Part 2

Part 2 of 4:

Prepping the Wood

1
Remove old finishes.^{[3]
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Research source}Strip the wood of any preexisting shellac, lacquer, wax, varnish, or paint. For this, feel free to move your project outdoors for the time being. Work with better air circulation while making your clean-up that much easier.^{[4]
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2
Sand the wood. Start with a medium (100-grit) sandpaper if the wood feels especially rough. After that, resand it with fine (150-grit) sandpaper, and then again with extra-fine (220-grit) paper. Inspect the wood for any scratches in between each sanding. If necessary, use the extra-fine paper to smooth scratched areas.
3
Clean up. Vacuum the wood and surrounding area to remove all of the dust created by sanding. Use a soft-brush attachment when vacuuming the wood itself to avoid scratching the surface. Then dampen a lint-free cloth and wipe the wood down to remove any dust that the vacuum missed. Repeat with a second wipe-down using a dry microfiber cloth.^{[5]
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- If your polyurethane is oil-based, use mineral spirits to dampen your lint-free cloth.
- For water-based polyurethane, dampen your cloth with water.
- Some people use tack cloths for the dry wipe-down, but be aware that some tack cloths may include chemicals that will interfere with the polyurethane’s adhesion.

Part 3

Part 3 of 4:

Deciding on Techniques

1
Brush flat surfaces. Cover the most surface area at a time by using a brush.^{[6]
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Research source} Reduce the number of coats needed, since brushes create thicker coats. Favor natural bristles for oil-based polys, and synthetic ones for water-based polys. When brushing:
- Dunk the bristles roughly an inch (2.5 cm) into the polyurethane to load the brush.
- Brush with the grain in long, even strokes.
- After each stroke, run the brush back over any drips that need to be smoothed out.
- Overlap half of each previous stroke to reduce the chance of gaps and uneven coating.
- After each coat, reinspect it for any drips that need repairing.
2
Wipe contoured surfaces. Avoid the drips that may occur from brushing areas that aren’t perfectly flat. Expect this technique to create thinner coats, so double the amount of coats that you would otherwise apply with a brush.^{[7]
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Research source} When wiping:^{[8]
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- Fold a clean cloth into a square, roughly palm-sized, to apply your coats.
- Dip an edge into the polyurethane.
- Wipe it onto the wood, following the grain.
- With each wipe, overlap half of the previous wipe for even coating.
3
Spray less accessible places. Purchase an aerosol can of polyurethane to coat areas that are difficult to reach with a brush or cloth. Err on the side of caution and spray in very short bursts to avoid creating drips, since these will also be out of reach and difficult to repair. Be sure to cover surrounding areas with a protective surface before applying.^{[9]
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- Spray-on polyurethane creates very thin coats.
- Practice on a test area first to improve your technique.

Part 4

Part 4 of 4:

Applying Polyurethane

1
Stir the polyurethane. After you open the can, use a stir stick to mix the polyurethane’s components evenly, which may have settled and separated over time. Always stir, rather than shake. Expect shaking to create bubbles in the liquid, which may be transferred intact to the wood, creating an uneven coat.^{[10]
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2
Seal the wood. Use a clean container to create a mixture of polyurethane and mineral spirits. Combine two parts polyurethane with one part mineral spirits in the new container. Brush or wipe a single coat of this mixture onto the wood. Wait for it to dry before proceeding.
- Pure polyurethane takes roughly 24 hours to dry, but it should take less than that when diluted with mineral spirits.^{[11]
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3
Sand the wood again. From this point forward, always sand the wood before applying a new coat. Remove any runs, drips, bubbles, or visible brushstrokes that may have developed. Use extra-fine (220-grit) sandpaper to reduce the chance of scratching the surface.^{[12]
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Research source} Once done, vacuum and wipe the wood again to remove all particles.
4
Apply the first coat. After sealing the wood, use pure polyurethane. However, continue to pour small batches into a clean container, rather than dipping your brush or cloth directly into the original can. Avoid tainting your main supply with any dust or other particles that your brush or cloth might pick up.^{[13]
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- When brushing, go over the whole surface area with your brush again, without reloading it, once the first coat is complete. Smooth out any drips or runs.
- After that, give the polyurethane 24 hours to air-dry.
5
Repeat. Once the first coat has dried, sand the wood again. Then add a second in the same manner. Wait another 24 hours to dry. If you used a brush, two coats is fine. For any areas where a cloth or spray was used, repeat twice for a total of four coats.^{[14]
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- After the final coat use a piece of cardboard instead of sandpaper to buff the surface. This will give a nice polyurethane finish.

Community Q&A

Question

Is it colorless and if so, can color be added to it?

Community Answer

Water-based poly is colorless. Oil-based poly turns amber over time. You can stain or paint the wood before applying the poly.
Question

What materials are used for filling the cracks and gaps in wood ?

Community Answer

Use wood filler. Use a spatula for application. Allow the filler to completely dry, then sand it down for an even surface.
Question

If I've applied a color stain to the wood, should I really be sanding between coats? I don't want to inadvertently remove the stain.

Community Answer

Sand very lightly using a fine grit sand paper. You only want to "rough up" the surface of the previous coat to give the next coat better adhesion.